Nyerere National Park: Public campsite

 

Our team went for a camping expedition in Nyerere National Park and although we failed to reach our original destination of Tagalala, we were happy and satisfied with the Mbuyu wa Lunch spot. I'm not actually sure this is technically a camping site and we had our concerns given the volume of daytrippers, but in the end it perfectly served our purpose. 

One of the downsides of Nyerere National Park is the huge volume of day trippers, the majority of them coming from Zanzibar. I've written about the day trippers in the park before though I have personally been able to avoid them.  The price point for tourists $450 to $650 for a flight, entry fee, game drive, lunch, etc is perfectly placed in my opinion. I imagine that I am a tourist that came to Tanzania not for the safari but for the beaches of Zanzibar. I hear that I can zip over in a day to possibly see lions and elephants, I'm on holiday ready to have a good time, why not? Maybe it's even the 8th consecutive day of chilling at the resort on the beach and we are eager to mix things up? Whatever the case may be, there are hordes of vehicles and tourists coming from Zanzibar every morning starting at 6am. I've dropped off guests at the airstrip and witnessed the steady stream of planes ferrying guests in, something you'd expect from the Serengeti but not necessarily Nyerere NP. Beach Safaris vehicles were everywhere, a volume that I've only seen matched by Leopard Safaris in the north circa 2015. 

Due to the day trippers we were initially skeptical that we'd be happy at Mbuyu wa Lunch. However, in typical Tanzanian fashion we were late to get into the park and we quickly realized that Tangalala would be out of reach if we wanted to set up camp in the daylight. I was also very concerned that Tangalala would have any facilities, not even considering that we had two cooks in tow and a significant number of people for a two night camping trip. When we passed through Mbuyu wa Lunch while we still had visions of Tangalala, I took close note at the facilities. The Zanzibar Day Trippers had forced TANAPA to step up and although the facilities were still in poor condition and ramshackle, there was water, shade, and functional toilets. The mens toilet facility were simple concrete blocks while the womens toilet area was a long block built with iron sheets and looking more like a temporary toilet for a construction crew, yet it was somehow nicer than the male facilities. For our group, it was exactly what we needed. 

We set up our tents and as twilight set in we immediately heard the calls of hyenas. Then very soon after we saw a small group of hyenas approaching the camp. This is typical, hyenas are incredibly intelligent and they have surely identified this spot as a foraging hotspot. Remains of day trippers lunches can range from chickens bones to fruits, all of which the hyenas will gladly scavenge. What I didn't realize was the size of the hyena population in the area as eventually around a dozen hyenas prowled around the shadows and edges of camp. During the night one came directly up to our tent door, a co-worker had his shoe taken from outside his tent, and their overall curiosity wreaked havoc on several of my colleague's sleep schedules. The following evening they were even more brave and brazen, though it never felt threatening, just more like insistently curious. They would always trot off when you put the torchlight on them but they would also immediately start to creep closer and closer. The moon was a waning crescent and did not rise until late, thus the night was incredibly dark. It was comical to flash the torch and freeze a hyena 20m away. Click off the torch, wait 20 seconds, turn it on and boom, it'd be standing 15m away, looking as innocent as one can be. 

We largely avoided the crowds and when we came back for lunch we did meet a packed campsite. We also met a few guides that we knew from our work and they instructed us on where to find a lion. Some of the tourists found our group puzzling, 10 Tanzanians and two foreigners all eating ugali and fried fish, clearly having set up shop at one of the bandas. I was overall super pleased with the campsite and couldn't recommend it enough for large groups.  

Camp

Honeymoon wing

 

Nyerere National Park Walking Safaris

 

Walking safaris are always a bit hit or miss and usually depend on the knowledge of the guide. My co-workers wanted to do a walking safari for something different than the typical driving safari and I thought that Nyerere National Park is actually a really cool spot to walk because of the access to the lakes. I was initially a bit concerned because we were assigned a ranger that only had experience doing patrols. However, he was very open to whatever we wanted to do and we agreed on waking up early and taking a short drive down to the shore of Lake Manze. 

It was a cloudy morning and the soft light provided a calming vibe. The lakes in the area all have sprawling and intricate shapes, constantly changing due to the changing water levels. In many places there are shallow floodplains at various stages of drying or hosting shallow swamps. We walked along an area full of hippos, birds, and waterbuck. When we rounded a corner we startled (and ourselves were startled by) a group of impala that swiftly darted in front of us. It was a magical moment, having been startled by the noise we were then at ease as we stood motionless hearing the sounds of their hooves hitting the mud as they sprinted past us. 

We were out walking from around 7am until 9am and we felt the heat starting to build on our way back. It was a beautiful morning and we had the entire place to ourselves. Traditional safari drives from a vehicle are nice because you can cover a lot of ground and feel safe within a vehicle but nothing beats the experience of the stillness of the early morning. Taking in all the sounds paints a beautiful aural picture, with the snorts of hippos mixed in with the distant croaks of a Hadada Ibis, and the soft displacement of water as an African Spoonbill pokes around for food. 

Most of my visits to Nyerere National Park have been in the context of work and my leisure trips had been pretty underwhelming. This walking safari was the perfect way to highlight the strengths of Nyerere National Park and I think the boat and walking safari are the best ways to experience this park.  

The animal highway to the lake, complete with a lion track

 

Ruaha National Park: Jabali Ridge

I remember when we were among the first guests at Jabali Ridge in 2017. It was sparkling new and the chic and styling decor stood out among the more traditional rustic designs of the other Ruaha lodges. Over the years we've been lucky to stay here a number of times, a kind of complete opposite experience of camping. We love camping but it's certainly much easier to just show up at a luxury lodge and have delicious food in beautifully crafted chalets. I joke, but there are times for everything and of course we enjoy visits here. In truth we are friends with the lodge manager and in the conservation industry and vast landscapes like Ruaha, it's always good to catch up with friends and hear about what is happening in their corners. This trip was no different and we enjoyed catching up with our friend while also enjoying the new high volume and frequently refilled cookie jars in the guest rooms!

 

Ruaha National Park: Ikuka Safari Camp

View from the loft

I've written about here before but I've got to give this place another shout out. It's been a while since we've spent the night and I was reminded exactly why I love Ikuka. The location is unique in Ruaha, perched on the escarpment looking out over the Ruaha River Valley. It's a short jaunt up from the Mwagusi River and the spectacular views are complimented by the stylish yet natural and fitting design of the lodge. The main area is breezy and spacious with a swimming pool, loft and comfortable seating areas. 

The food is fresh and creative, using local ingredients that extend to the surprisingly high quality and diverse selection in Iringa. Each Ruaha lodge is unique but Ikuka remains at the top for me! 

Sunsets for the honeymooners