Amani Forest Reserve: Trip III

After a brief rain the moisture was hanging in the air.

We had visited Amani Forest Reserve in 2014 and 2016 and really love the place. We wanted to spend some more time in the forest but we unfortunately had our trip cut short (Trip I, Trip II) due to COVID-19. We planned to stay a few nights but due to uncertainty on how the nation would handle the first few cases we decided to head back home. We still got a chance to get out one day and do some hiking and birdwatching.

The drive up from Muheza was quite muddy this time of year and took around 1:40 to reach the village of Amani. The resthouse that we had previously stayed at was under construction (about a half hour down the hill from Amani proper) which means it will probably have some decent facilities in the near future. When we reached Muheza we found the Amani HQ had a previous booking and was full! We couldn't believe it but they directed us to another guesthouse, apparently the old malaria research station. There we found a comfy room in an old farmhouse type building set up on the top of a hill next to a river; extremely picturesque!

We immediately went to Kwamkoro Trail, one of the trails set in the interior of Amani. It's kind of weird because you must pass through a tea plantation to reach the trail head but there is an old logging road that is relatively flat. It's a beautiful walk through nicely preserved forest, the only drawback being that it's not a loop. We enjoyed an afternoon walk with some light showers, which I always feel like highlight the montane forest in a mystical way.

Unfortunately we got word of the first confirmed COVID-19 case that evening so we decided it was safer to head back home. It was still great to have even the briefest visit in the amazing forests.

Taking a picture of a forest is always a crapshoot.

Peponi: Tanga trip V

I love the common area right next to the beach

We unfortunately had our trip to Spain cancelled due to COVID-19 concerns so we decided to make the best of a bad situation and at least get out of Iringa town. We decided to visit one of our favorite spots in Tanzania on the Tanga Coast (Trip I, Trip II, Trip III, Trip IV). We had not been able to visit for nearly three years (!!!) due to the long driving distance. However, we decided to wake up early and drive the 10 hours to Peponi, one of our favorite places.

One of the reasons we decided to go to the coast was the fact that we're in the middle of the rainy season. We had plenty of places that we wanted to do wildlife viewing or hiking, but if there is a rainy day then we would find ourselves stuck. With the beach, we at least know there are covered public space that we can chill at and read, after all we don't spend our days at the beach laying in the sun anyway.

We love that Peponi has campsites that are quite cheap and right next to the ocean. Our tent can get a nice sea breeze and the sound of the ocean at night is therapeutic. It can get a little warm in our tent but we found that if we put a mosquito net (always travel with one!) draped over our tent with the sides open, the breeze can come through.

The beach is nearly always deserted and we were able to do some fantastic bird watching as well. It's such a chill location and the services and staff are still amazing. I was pleased to recognize, and be recognized, by many of the staff even years later. We hope that another three years doesn't pass before we go again!

Walking along the beach.

The seafood platter for two. At 50,000tsh (roughly $21.00) it is one of my favorite meals in the entire world.

Peponi: Tanga Trip IV

Reflect

We had a Monday off this week and we'll take any excuse to sneak off to Peponi, our choice of accommodation on the Tanga coast (Trip I, Trip II, Trip III). Although the rainy season threatens any activity with rain, we knew that we could still enjoy the coast without sunshine.

It's a good thing we had such a positive attitude because we were greeted with overcast skies when we arrived late Saturday morning. We set up camp and went on a walk, getting back just in time for rain and wind to begin. What to do? Grab our books, find a dry spot, and enjoy the rain!

For those unaccustomed to what a rainy season is like, we basically went to the beach in winter. While it wasn't cold, it was chilly and the weather uninviting and the character and vibe of the coast completely changes. The weather throughout the weekend was quite dreary but it also offered spectacular light and colors on the coast. Gone were the usual bright reflecting colors and instead we had a very soft blue and grey backdrop. It was cool to watch the storms over the ocean from a far while the shore was completely still. Despite the frequent showers, we did find time for frequent walks and did plenty of reading. I even managed to start and finish a book, a true indication of leisure time.

That rain did eventually hit us.  

Ocean front campsite, and covered taboot

Storm is a brewing!

Amazing soft light and still water gave a very subdued feeling. 

Tanga Coast: Trip III

We love going to the Tanga coast (Trip I, Trip II) and with the extended Christmas break we could go to our usual spot at Peponi as well as explore some other places along the coastline.

We stayed at a place called Barry's Beach Resort close to Mkwaja, the closest village outside of Saadani National Park. It's located on a very deserted beach and the property is the result of some serious investment though it was a little too nice and sanitized for our style. Still, it was cool to see a different part of the Tanga coast and it had camping facilities.

We later explored some of the coast around Pangani, including a trip up the Pangani River. There was one really nice deserted beach and the Pangani River provided an interesting excursion with a road that bisects a fantastic mangrove forest. There really aren't any great touristic features but we always love to "fill in the map" and see what is there.

Our trip finished at Peponi, which was awesome as usual. They have such a fantastic environment that caters to both backpackers and families and it provided a great base to explore the coastal forests and surrounding environment. The only downside of the trip occurred when I dropped our camera in the ocean. Luckily we have a backup camera but I loved our new camera so it's a tough loss. I wasn't even inebriated or anything and I even had the camera strapped around my arm. It just slid off as I tried to climb into a boat when we were bird watching. Too bad, but it still can't spoil the overall trip!

The beach close to 

Ana checking out some birds at Barry's. 

The view from Barry's patio.

Pangani River

A beach just outside of Pangani town. 

Peponi sunrise. 

Ana checking out some birds. 

A cool fish. 

Relaxing birding walk along the tide pools in the morning. 

Coastal Forests in Tanga

View of the landscape

We have long been intrigued by the unique habitat of coastal forests, which stretch from Mozambique up through Kenya. A dedicated conservation site, "Coastal Forests of Kenya and Tanzania", gives the following info:

The Coastal Forests of East Africa are a globally recognised area of great biological importance and diversity. Many species are endemic to these forests, for example 44% of plants are endemic to the coastal forests and 40% of plant genera are confined to a single forest patch. Forests only 100 km apart may have an 80% difference in their plant species.

Unfortunately, the majority of the original coastal forests have been decimated. Of the original 291,250 km2, only 10 % (29,125 km2) of natural vegetation remains. This is distributed across more than 400 forest fragments which, ecologically speaking, leads to a slow death since there are no corridors for wildlife. Making matters worse, the forest fragments are typically completely un-managed and subject to intense local use for charcoal, timber, and other products. In light of all this, we wanted to see what remains before it is too late!

Information is extremely sparse so we relied on forestry surveys and google maps to identify forest reserves close to Pangani in Tanga Region. We settled on Msumbugwe and Kibubu Forest Reserves, the former a bit south of the Pangani River and the latter a bit north. We also visited Zaraninge forest, which is located in the more formally protected Saadani National Park, written about in this blog entry.

The Msumbugwe forest was a massive disappointment. Although the area shows up as very green on google maps, it is evident the forest has been cleared of big trees and what remains is a dry and hot area filled with shrubs.  There was a large and well maintained road bisecting the reserve with multiple trails leading to tree falls. We walked on several of these trails but after an hour or so, we turned back without having seen much of anything.

We later went to Kibubu Forest Reserve, which is a former WWF managed site. WWF had a big investment in coastal forests but has since removed themselves from the project in the Tanga Region. Kibubu Forest had some nice patches of forest but appeared to have a much more formalized charcoal operation. Huge areas were clear cut with massive burning pits for charcoal. Once again there was an extensive network of trails with evidence of firewood gathering and charcoal burning.

In Kibubu we saw a motorcycle with a passenger come and turn around as soon as they saw our car. When we exited we were met by a group of people that said they saw our car come in and they inquired what we were doing in the forest. We are technically supposed to get a permit to enter the forest but it was obvious that the group was anxious. It probably didn't help we have a WWF sticker on our car, which made them even more nervous. We had a tense but cordial conversation where they said they had a permit to take charcoal while I commented that the cutting seemed like too much.

Having worked with communities bordering conservation areas, I truly struggle with these types of situations. The forests provide income opportunities to people without an education or other economic opportunities. Absent of income generating opportunities or incentives to not cut the forest, what is to be expected? I don't think for a second that I would act differently in their situation and thinking about conservation in general is something that is afforded to those who have their basic needs taken care of. It is why I believe that education and economic development (and possibly carbon credits) are the only ways to conserve, not just gazetting an area and policing it. It is a shame that they are left in a kind of no mans land whereby locals are in fear of extracting and there are no land use management plans or things of that nature. I have written to WWF to try to understand why they pulled out of that area but the lack of information on the internet leads me to believe it may be opening pandoras box....

Charcoal pit

Big clear cut opening in the forest

Hiking!

A very cool tree; dark smooth wood with a paper like bark and spines

Shagayu Forest Reserve

Beginning our hike amongst the clouds.

The unique rainforest habitats in the Eastern Arc Mountains are one of our favorite places to visit in Tanzania. With dozens of forest reserves scattered anywhere from 1 1/2 to 8 hours from us, we've spent the last few years exploring as many of the pockets of forests as possible. This weekend we went to the Shagayu Forest Reserve in the West Usambara Mountains.

It took us about seven hours from Moshi to reach our main base outside the forest. We had arranged with two local guides to hike to the peak and camp, and descend the following day. We were a little concerned because from where we stayed in Mambo, we couldn't see the forest, rather we could only see clear cut areas for agricultures or pine plantations. We were also concerned because the area appeared to have their short rainy season at this time and combined with the elevation, it was quite wet! Still, we prepared the best we could and we've had many hikes in the Eastern Arcs with a bit of rain. After all, you can't expect to visit a rainforest without, rain?

When we left Mambo in the morning our spirits were high and our backpacks were loaded. We walked through the village and cut up through a pine plantation at which point we could see the forest. After about an hour we reached the forest reserve and started our trek. One of the things we love about montane rainforest is the fact that small peak receives different amounts of moisture and sun and provides a variety of habitats as you walk.

We reached a rock face for lunch and it provided an amazing view over some forest covered mountains with the plains in the far distance. It was awesome to get a view of the forest and we were told the peak doesn't actually have a very nice view so it was the best vista we would get. After a nice lunch it began to rain and our pace quickened so we could reach the top. It started as a classic rainforest misty rain and then quickly evolved into a downpour. Within 10 seconds we were soaked to the bone. We pressed on for a few more hours and finally reached the  peak. There was a large rock face that created a mini shelter but we were also pleased to see the rain had stopped on the top of the mountain. We quickly set up camp and made a fire, which was a struggle with all the wet wood. Things were looking good and we managed to half dry some of our items when the rain came again. We finished our dinner in the tent and went to sleep early. Very early.

In the morning we woke up in a cloud. Although it wasn't raining, it was pretty moist. We managed to start a fire and have a quick breakfast before heading down. The forest closest to the peak was the most stunning and we didn't have the time to properly appreciate on the way up. It was so lush and green with lichen and moss growing on every possible surface. Unfortunately, the rain started again and we upped our pace as we descended.

The rain finally cleared as we neared the edge of the forest reserve. We were happy to be somewhat dry, although we still had to hike a few hours to get back to the village. We had an amazing time at the forest reserve and for me personally it ranks high up on the list of the forests of the Eastern Arcs.

Stopping to get water. Check out how big those ferns are!

Lunch spot.

Our very wet campsite.

In the morning the sun was shining for about five minutes.

Dripping with moss and lichen!

The sun was trying to burn off some moisture but it wasn't possible!

Our lunch spot the second day, though we cut it short as the clouds won out over the tiny bit of sun.

Mambo, Tanga Region

View over the Mkomazi valley.

We had a four day weekend and decided to attempt to visit one of the forest reserves in the West Usambara mountains. We have visited six other forest reserves in the chain of mountains called the Eastern Arc mountains, which are unique for their biodiversity and tropical/montane rainforest climate. We first, however, had to get to our starting point, which was camping in a place called Mambo.

We headed about three hours south on the main highway. We made a turn off on a dirt road towards a national park, Mkomazi. Mkomazi National Park has a section that is  valley between the South Pare and West Usambara Mountains. We headed into this valley and then started to climb a steep "shortcut" up the mountain.

The drive through the acacia habitat in the valley was impressive for its vastness and thickness of acacia trees. We seemed to be in the middle of nowhere and didn't even see a group of cows or goats. When we reached the mountain side we immediately enjoyed amazing vistas and views of the South Pares and the valley below as we climbed the south western side.

After reaching the top we wove our way through the Usambaras until we reached Mambo, on the north end of the mountains. The views were equally stunning over the valley. We have enjoyed these vistas from several spots along the Pares and Usambaras, but here it was among the best! We were up to 1900m (6,200 ft). There was a nice hike down to a rocky overhang and we enjoyed the sunset as the clouds and cold moved in! 

Down in the Mkomazi valley.

Flash flood river bed with some sun in the background.

Awesome to drive through a cloud!

Great vista.

A good place to sit and think.

Amani Forest Reserve: Trip II

Great viewpoint!

On October 14th there is a national holiday called Nyerere Day, the commemoration of the death anniversary of Julius Nyerere, the highly revered "father" of the nation. This year it fell on a Friday, which allowed us to have a three day weekend and take a trip a bit outside the usual radius of weekend trips. We decided to go to Amani Forest Reserve, which we'd only gone to once before (Trip I) about two and a half years ago.

One of the things we liked most about our trip was the accommodation at the gate of the park. Typically people either stay another 20 minute drive up the road at the main Amani Park headquarters (and small village) or at a upscale "eco" lodge even further in. The accommodation at the park gate, called Zigi Resthouse, had its pros and cons.

Negatives: It is located a bit far from the best preserved parts of the forest. It is located next to the main road where there is a gate and cars/trucks have to stop, which makes for a bit of noise at times. It is very basic.

Positives: It has good value food and a varied menu can be arranged with the manager/cook. It's very rare for people to stay there so you usually have it to yourself. There are paths extremely close where you can go for a walk in the forest. There is a river behind the main building and the sound of the river is a constant backdrop. It is very basic.

I also must say the staff are very responsive via email and text. Their website is basic but the contact page has up to date contacts. Because of the infrequency of visitors, it is probably recommended to call ahead since they will likely not be prepared for drop ins!

Aside from the accommodation, we once again enjoyed the well established and easily accessible trail network. There are not many places in Tanzania you can freely walk that aren't heavily impacted by human resource extraction or have exorbitant conservation fees. Although the impact of logging and agriculture are quite noticeable, there are corridors and patches of forest and it's relatively easy to find a trail where you don't have to worried about getting lost.

The first day we arrived and did a short hike in the area by Zigi Guesthouse. It was originally part of the botanical gardens the Germans established there in the early 20th century so there are a few non-native and very interesting plants there. In the afternoon we drove up to the main gate and did a hike to a view point, which was beautiful in the afternoon sun.

The next day we bit the bullet and hired a bird guide since the area is a hot spot for birding. There are several birds that are only found in the Amani area and since last time we didn't see many of them, we decided it would be wise for a professional to help us out.

I was a bit skeptical about getting a guide since many guides around Moshi can have what I feel is a disingenuous and contrived "act" that panders to tourists expectations and romanticism of Africa. Our guide, Martin, was totally the opposite. He was originally from the area but had spent time working for a big company in Arusha before coming back to Amani. He was excellent with the birds and knew a lot of great spots, including a part of the reserve that was nearly an hour away from the main gate.

Overall we had another great experience at the Amani Nature Reserve. Although the area doesn't have as pristine of forests as some other mountains in the Eastern Arc, it is still worth the visit!

We saw this innovative covering for a motorcycle taxi.

River walk by Zigi Guesthouse.

We unfortunately did not have a picnic to go with the table. But we did enjoy the views.

Ana checking out the other side.

Inside the forest.

Hiking off the trail.

North Tanga: Fish Eagle Point

Low tide view from our window.

High tide.

The water extended all the way into this cove. From the pictures above this is towards the right of the frame. The water goes out far!

We split up our holiday (South Tanga) and spent the last night at a place in the north of Tanga called Fish Eagle Point. We had heard it was a beautiful lodge set in mangrove forests but most of our friends had given us average to above average reviews of it so we didn't expect a ton. We had actually tried to come last year and even showed up at the gate only to be met by a sign that informed us it was closed for a month. This time I was prepared and even messaged them ahead and decided we would take a proper lodge over camping and we would also take a boat out to a sand island to snorkel.

We drove about 40 minutes north of Tanga and turned off onto a dirt road towards the camp. We later learned that the road was only built in 2008 and the property was previously only accessible by boat. The road even went through a village and eventually gave way to thick scrub as the road continued to narrow. We eventually reached the grounds and were taking aback by the size and space. We passed a small cove with rooms spaced out around the beach and made our way to the main area. It had a very deserted feel that initially felt a bit weird but then we eventually appreciated for its isolation.

We reached the main building which was built open air style with a small loft above and awesome views of a cove. We were then told that we had been upgraded and taken to our room which was amazing. A small pier/walkway led to our room which was elevated over the ocean. It was totally open air with only curtains but they were entirely unnecessary as the room was tucked within mangroves and a view to the ocean alone.

We took a trip out on a small sailboat to a sand island that emerges during low tide. We had gone to a similar place near Pangani and it did not disappoint; crystal clear blue water with healthy reefs full of fish. On the way back we even put the sail up (there was also a motor) and enjoyed a relaxing cruise back to the lodge. We even had time for a hike around the property to do some birding.

We loved the feel of Fish Eagle Point and wished we had allocated more time staying there. We checked out their camping facilities, which were very nice, and we figure we'll come back and camp for an extended time. The place is a family run operation and the owners were very kind and friendly.

View from the main lodge.

Our room.

View from our room. Pretty pretty good.

Everyone is a sucker for an elevated restaurant over the ocean.

Ana diving.

Ana is not upset, she is eating a crepe.

A family that lives in Dar joined us on the boat trip. They were intrigued by our interest in the birds.

Mid-morning coffee.

One of the many crabs.

The boat that took us out to the island.