Amani Forest Reserve: Trip III

After a brief rain the moisture was hanging in the air.

We had visited Amani Forest Reserve in 2014 and 2016 and really love the place. We wanted to spend some more time in the forest but we unfortunately had our trip cut short (Trip I, Trip II) due to COVID-19. We planned to stay a few nights but due to uncertainty on how the nation would handle the first few cases we decided to head back home. We still got a chance to get out one day and do some hiking and birdwatching.

The drive up from Muheza was quite muddy this time of year and took around 1:40 to reach the village of Amani. The resthouse that we had previously stayed at was under construction (about a half hour down the hill from Amani proper) which means it will probably have some decent facilities in the near future. When we reached Muheza we found the Amani HQ had a previous booking and was full! We couldn't believe it but they directed us to another guesthouse, apparently the old malaria research station. There we found a comfy room in an old farmhouse type building set up on the top of a hill next to a river; extremely picturesque!

We immediately went to Kwamkoro Trail, one of the trails set in the interior of Amani. It's kind of weird because you must pass through a tea plantation to reach the trail head but there is an old logging road that is relatively flat. It's a beautiful walk through nicely preserved forest, the only drawback being that it's not a loop. We enjoyed an afternoon walk with some light showers, which I always feel like highlight the montane forest in a mystical way.

Unfortunately we got word of the first confirmed COVID-19 case that evening so we decided it was safer to head back home. It was still great to have even the briefest visit in the amazing forests.

Taking a picture of a forest is always a crapshoot.

Peponi: Tanga trip V

I love the common area right next to the beach

We unfortunately had our trip to Spain cancelled due to COVID-19 concerns so we decided to make the best of a bad situation and at least get out of Iringa town. We decided to visit one of our favorite spots in Tanzania on the Tanga Coast (Trip I, Trip II, Trip III, Trip IV). We had not been able to visit for nearly three years (!!!) due to the long driving distance. However, we decided to wake up early and drive the 10 hours to Peponi, one of our favorite places.

One of the reasons we decided to go to the coast was the fact that we're in the middle of the rainy season. We had plenty of places that we wanted to do wildlife viewing or hiking, but if there is a rainy day then we would find ourselves stuck. With the beach, we at least know there are covered public space that we can chill at and read, after all we don't spend our days at the beach laying in the sun anyway.

We love that Peponi has campsites that are quite cheap and right next to the ocean. Our tent can get a nice sea breeze and the sound of the ocean at night is therapeutic. It can get a little warm in our tent but we found that if we put a mosquito net (always travel with one!) draped over our tent with the sides open, the breeze can come through.

The beach is nearly always deserted and we were able to do some fantastic bird watching as well. It's such a chill location and the services and staff are still amazing. I was pleased to recognize, and be recognized, by many of the staff even years later. We hope that another three years doesn't pass before we go again!

Walking along the beach.

The seafood platter for two. At 50,000tsh (roughly $21.00) it is one of my favorite meals in the entire world.

Jozani Forest: Trip III

In the forest

Visiting Jozani is a must when I go to Zanzibar (Trip I, Trip II). It offers a different type of environment than the beach and it’s a short and easy hike with the bonus of habituated monkeys for viewing while walking. I recommend it to anyone that visits Zanzibar, whether they love nature or just looking for something else to do. It can take under an hour if you have an easy pace or you can make it last longer but taking your time or requesting to hike deeper in the forest. They’ve steadily built up the facilities and amenities since the first time I came and it is a well advertised activity throughout the island.

Paje Beach: Trip III

My favorite beach to go to on a day trip from Stonetown is Paje Beach (Trip I, Trip II). It’s become a bit of a tradition for me to head out there one of the festival days, leaving after breakfast and spending the day lounging and swimming with a fantastic seafood lunch in between. My favorite thing about Paje are the variety of hotels, restaurants, and shops that allow you to stroll the beach and find exactly what you’re looking for. The beach is heavily occupied by kite surfers but they don’t encroach on the swimming while providing a pretty backdrop. The beach isn’t deserted by any means but it isn’t packed either. This trip was a little cloudy but it was kinda cool to watch rain pass by without actually hitting the beach.

A storm that passed by.

Sauti za Busara (Trip IV)

The main stage in twlight.

My fourth trip (Trip I, Trip II, Trip III) to Sauti za Busara was another total success. I’ve written at length about how much I love the music festival and it did not disappoint this year. The event planning was top tier professional with excellent sound, punctual performance times, great concessions and crowd control.

I’m a bit unique as a festival goer in that I am totally focused on seeing as much music as possible but this requires some strategic planning and pacing. Music begins just after 4pm with two performances in the public Forodhani Gardens stage located just outside the festival venue. These performances are great in that large crowds gather and the general public finds themselves curious. However, it’s usually pretty warm although the stage is right next to the sea which typically gives some sea breeze. Nearly all of the bands that play the early slot also play at a later date and/or time but for those that enjoy a more subdued vibe the Forodhani performances are perfect. From around sunset the performances move inside the venue at the main stage and every half hour or so there is a new act either in the smaller more subdued amphitheater (majority of people sitting) or the larger main stage.

I think the festival does an excellent job mixing the styles and performance times of the bands and especially highlighting music for younger crowds late on Friday and Saturday. If someone doesn’t like to dance and party but is interested in the music they can catch the early performances and head home by 10 or 11pm. If you want a more lively scene you can head in after dinner and enjoy music utnil 1am. Something for everyone!

My favorite thing about Sauti za Busara is not knowing any artists and being constantly surprised. Although the artist descriptions are usually spot on, it’s obviously impossible to know if you’ll like a certain band only by reading the festival booklet. This year my top three artists were Evon from Uganda (amazing voice), Tarajazz from Zanzibar (jazz/taarab fusion, drummer was off the hook!) and Sinaubi and Zawose Spirit Group from Tanzania (traditional music mixed with pan African instruments, insane hand drum player!!!). There wasn’t a bad act and as usual I loved the variety from percussion based traditional sounds to full band hip-hop and even electronic afro-pop. So many styles that I am unfamiliar with and the ability for the festival organizers to continually choose fresh artists never ceases to amaze me.

Out of 31 artists I saw performances by 28, which I consider a success! Although I’d love to see each artist, it’s difficult to juggle all the activities and keeping the energy high. I had some great interactions with foreigners and locals alike an marveled in the mixing of people from all over the world. As someone that comes specifically for the music I’m always surprised that the majority of people only come for a day or two of the fest, though this makes sense if you’re looking to combine the trip with a beach holiday. It is the one drawback of the fest being in Stonetown because the nearest nice beaches are about an hour or two away which means it’s not really feasible to stay somewhere on the beach unless you want to take the long taxi after the show. However, I wouldn’t fault someone for staying on the beach and coming for only a night or two.

Sauti za Busara remains one of my favorite events and I’m already looking forward to next year…

Gangilonga Rock: Iringa activity

Ana looking out to the north

One of the must do activities while in Iringa town is climbing atop Gangilonga Rock. Located within Iringa town on one of the two ranges of hills that surround Iringa, the rock is easy to climb and offers beautiful views of Iringa town.

It is a very short hike and is only a five minute walk from our door. We sadly don't often go up there but we're trying to make it a bit more of a routine for us.

The famous rock in the background on our way up

View towards Dodoma.

Lake Duluti: Trip VII

Flooded bandas

It has been nearly three years since we last visited Lake Duluti (Trip I, Trip II, Trip III, Trip IV, Trip V, Trip VI). This trip was particularly nice as we drove from Dodoma and arrived in Arusha in time for lunch. We then drove the 15 minutes to Lake Duluti and had more than enough time to walk around the lake and stretch our legs.

The recent rains had caused the lake levels to rise to the point where we couldn't access the bandas by the main registration area. We thought it was a good day to take out the canoes but our ambling bird walk did not allow us enough time to get on the water.