Northern Mt. Kilimanjaro: Rongai Forest

Map of north Kilimanjaro Region with Rongai Forest in red. 

We recently took a trip to Rongai Forest with the bird club. Rongai Forest is located on the northeast side of Mt. Kilimanjaro. Most tourists would know the area as one of the trailheads for climbing Mt. Kilimanjaro. The “Rongai route” starts just outside the town of Rongai at 2,000m (6,400 ft). There are several large government run pine tree plantations (mainly pinus patula), though there are two rivers that run through the area in which the original montane forest zone displays its beauty.

Deep inside the forests of pinus patula, the "weeping pine" native to the highlands of Mexico. 

We took a dala-dala from Moshi to the nearby town of Tarakea. The trip was about an hour to an hour and a half and provided stunning scenery as we wound our way around the side of Mt. Kilimanjaro. Upon arrival to Tarakea we chartered a dala-dala to the trail head of the Rongai Route. We didn't waste much time as Tarakea is a somewhat standard border town with a variety of touts hustling money changing or guiding services.

When we arrived to the trail head we stopped and chatted with some of the workers. We told them we weren't going to take the main trail, which would have required us paying a park fee for Kilimanjaro National Park ($80 USD!!!). Instead of following the Kilimanjaro climbing route up, we went down a bit and walked along the Nalemuru river. There were some locals washing clothes along sections of the river

Nalemuru River. 

Because of the steep slopes of the river we often times walked along the top of the steep sides of the river. On both sides of the river there were massive plantations of pinus patula trees which dramatically changed the feel of the area. There was maybe only 10-20m (30-60ft) of native vegetation surrounding the river, which felt like a jungle, and then it would suddenly give way to the mono-culture of trees. One of the coolest trees along the river was the Euphorbia candelabrum, often called the Candelabra Tree. It appears to be a cactus but when you look further down the tree you see it has a wooden trunk, certainly a peculiar tree!

Euphorbia candelabrum, often called the Candelabra Tree.

After walking along the river we then began to walk east towards the main road. There was a  very large section of forest plantation and it had recently been cleared. We saw some kids from nearby villages gathering firewood and the open space was prime bird habitat.

Stark contrast between the plantation and the recently cleared area. 

We then crossed over the main road and walked along the Kikelelwa River. We not only saw birds like the Peters’ Twinspot, Olive Thruss and Paradise Flycatcher, but we also saw some Black and White Colobus monkeys hanging in the trees with their ridiculous shaggy coat. Once again we were surrounded by thick forest around the river but within 20 or so meters was farmland consisting of maize and timber trees. Still, the forest was thick and rich with birdilfe.

Inside the forest trail. 

Kikelewa River. We had to pounce across the rocks to cross. 

The day ended with a small bit of drama. The dala-dala that we took up to Tarakea was supposed to take us back down. We were out of cell phone range most of the day so we had to walk back along the main highway until we got signal. When we called the driver he said he was in Moshi! We then flagged down a random car heading towards Tarakea and offered him some money if he would take all of us the 15 minute drive. He had a very small car and we sat five people in the back and two in the front. It was quite crowded but we reached Tarakea and shortly after found a bus back to Moshi.