Iringa town walks II

 

Looking north

I recently wrote about a beautiful area right behind our house, a convenient and worthwhile trip whenever we are in Iringa town. This time of year is perfect for walks with cloud cover appreciated especially with the area situated at 1700m (5,570 ft). The rainy season also means the grasses and trees are full of green and the lush landscape provides a pretty backdrop.

Even though there was sufficient cloud cover and the weather was cool, the plateau is extremely exposed so we started our trek early. After the initial climb the majority of the walk was rather flat winding through grasslands and rocky outcrops. We occasionally had some peeks of Iringa town but otherwise the views were of the surrounding granite studded hillsides. 

When we reached the northern side of our destination the views were incredible! The trek down was rather moderate and we were lucky enough to pop out in town right next to where a public transport route begins making it an easy trip back to our place. It was a long walk, about 2 1/2 hours, and we were feeling tired for sure. It's a beautiful trek but the elevation not only wears you out quicker because of less oxygen but the effects of the sun's powerful UV rays are amplified as well. One must be relatively fit but also prepared with a hat, sunscreen, and plenty of water!

Grasslands

Valley to the east and north

Morogoro Town

View of the Uluguru Mountains to the south of the city

 

 

View of Morogoro town from the Uluguru Mountains looking north

I've always just passed through Morogoro town and had not really given it a fair visit. This past weekend we used the town as our base and enjoyed our time in the simultaneously sleepy yet bustling city. Morogoro is known for its rich farming both in the surrounding lowlands and the slopes of the Uluguru Mountains. The mountains provide a stunning backdrop whether they are covered in clouds or towering clearly above the town. 

Morogoro is not a large town with the most hectic area around the large bus terminal and surrounding area. The downtown area reminds me of Iringa where it is actually rather small and navigable but also bustling and full of commerce. The town offers a great base to explore Mikumi National Park as well as hiking the Uluguru Mountains. Apart from that there isn't much going on in and around Morogoro tourism wise though there were far more restaurants and eateries than I expected for such a small place. 

International food is represented well at the Edelwyss-Inn with spectacular views overlooking the town. There is great Indian at the Morogoro Hotel and nice Chinese at Gigas Panda. There are other popular places such as Red Chili, Cafe Mee, Ricky's Cafe, and Mambo Coffee. It makes sense that such a rich agricultural region would have a variety of eateries available and Morogoro punches above its weight. 

There are also a variety of accommodation options available from farmsteads on the outskirts (among them the well regarded Mbuyuni Farm Retreat) to more traditional hotels (Nashera Hotel, Morogoro Hotel) as well as dozens of local guesthouses available at good value.

Morogoro is a pleasant enough place and worth a visit. For backpackers it offers a glimpse into a very average Tanzanian town with some nearby hiking. For expats and residents it can be a fun trip with large properties available for families and relaxing. And for those in transit anywhere along the TANZAM highway, it's a great stopover location.

Uluguru Mountains: Tegetaro

View to the north

The Uluguru Mountains are massive and although we enjoyed our hike to Bondwa Peak, we wanted to explore a different section of the forest. We heard there was good birdwatching and hiking on the eastern side so we headed to the tiny village of Tegetaro to access the forest. 

The road from Morogoro to Kinole was a slow and gentle climb with only a few steep points. But the remainder of the road from Kinole to Tegetaro  pushed our vehicle to the absolute test with deep ravines comprised of slippery clay soil. Even more white-knuckling was that the sides had no shoulder nor embankment meaning there was a very real prospect of literally slipping off the side of the mountain! We crawled up and after two hours we eventually arrived at Tegetaro, trying not to think about the drive down. 

We met with our guide and headed through sloped agriculture fields of cassava, banana, cinnamon, and other types of crops. There were some pretty views of some waterfalls raging off the mountains across the valley. After about an hour we reached the forest edge and began the trek inside the forest. 

The forest was beautiful with many large specimens of trees that led to a typical tropical rainforest understory. It had clearly rained the day (and possibly night?) before and clouds were frequently engulfing us. I have always loved the montane rainforest when it rains because it feels right, something about the essence of such a lush environment. It wasn't along before it started raining but the forest was so thick that we were not receiving a drop of rain; we could hear the rain everywhere and we were simultaneously engulfed in a cloud of fog, but we were not accruing any moisture on ourselves! 

We hung out at the first camp but realized it was probably better to head back. We got a little wet on the way back but by the time we exited the forest the rain had let up a bit. We plan to come back to camp for at least one night...in the dry season. When we arrived back at our car, our concerned guide inquired with everyone in the village regarding the volume of rain. After getting responses indicating there was indeed a lot of rain, he then started calling people asking about the road. He suggested coming with us until we reached a safer point and we were happy to oblige. I was seriously concerned about navigating the road though we had all the tools (tow rope, shovel, machete, shovel, etc) and were ready to take it conservatively. Luckily we went down without issue but it was a nervous ride down and more reason for us to return only in the dry season.

Entering into a cloud.

The forest

Pretty foggy.

Agriculture field hike

Uluguru Mountains: Bondwa Peak

Beautiful forest

 

The Eastern Arc Mountains are one of the true hidden gems of Tanzania. The chain of mountains showcase some spectacular montane rainforest though due to competing human uses the trails are typically steep and challenging. A few years ago at the same time of the year (Easter holiday) we attempted to trek in the Uluguru Mountains but we got rained out and didn't even make it to the trailhead. Thus we were mentally prepared to get rained out this trip but figured it was worth a shot.

I was very impressed by the Tanzanian Forest Service as getting information and paying for our visit was straightforward and all done through messaging. I contacted a friend in Morogoro and she shared the contact of a forestry officer. Everything was then arranged in a very straightforward and clear manner, including directions to the meeting point, updates on conditions of the road, and the phone number of the guide. He generated a control number and I paid by MPESA and then he later sent me a photo of the receipt. 

There are many different hikes available based out of Morogoro city and I suppose we chose Bondwa Peak with the assumption that we'd pass through more untouched parts of the forest. We did not do much research but surmised that we could easily make the climb in one day. We packed some snacks and drove up the mountain to the small village of Ruvuma. 

As mentioned it was the rainy season the the road was perilous. Our RAV4 prepared admirably but there were several sections with deep ravines and slippery mud. We left the town early and drove past dozens of people ferrying down bunches of bananas which we later learned were carried to one of two markets in Morogoro. As we drove up it was relatively clear with some clouds forming over the peaks. It was difficult to know what was typical morning fog and what were more menacing rainclouds. We had packed rain jackets and a spare pair of shoes in the vehicle ready for some rain. 

When we reached Ruvuma (1030m/3,380 ft) our guide was waiting for us. We parked the vehicle by a house and set off on the trail (7:30am departure). The beginning of the trail was a gradual incline through the village and past small homesteads and then eventually passing through periphery farmland. The trail began with a moderate incline but when we reached the outskirts the trail turned significantly steeper. Considering it was the peak of the rainy season, the trail was swallowed by grasses and brush making it difficult to see the increasingly narrow trail. The views were spectacular but the trail was tough and we were happy to finally reach the old power house which marked the end of the "farmland climb" and the beginning of the forest (9:00am arrival). 

The forest trail was a wide track akin to a former logging road with an accompany electric line that ran alongside the trail most of the way. I was initially confused but learned about an active radio tower at the peak and everything made much more sense. The trail was pretty moderate, especially compared to the steep trail that we ascended through the village, and we reached the peak at around 11:15. It was predictably cloudy at the top and we greeted the caretaker of the surprisingly large facility. We enjoyed a quick break before heading back down. I was happy that we took a different trail down, this time following the wide road until much closer to the village.

We were really fortunate to not get rained on though I would not recommend trekking during the rainy season. I was also surprised at how strenuous I found the hike. I am familiar with the steep Eastern Arc trails but I guess because this route is relatively popular I thought it would be easier. It certainly requires a decent level of fitness or a much slower pace. It took us around 7 hours round trip and although we did some birdwatching our pace was relatively swift. It's also not the most lush nor pristine Eastern Arc forest specimen but relatively accessible from Morogoro. If you're set on the trek but questioning your fitness, I would suggest requesting a motorcycle taxi up to the highest point on the main road trail and then walking from there. I'm sure that it's an easier trek in the dry season and the view is likely more rewarding at the top as well!

On our way up through thick grass

Not much of a view up top

The trail was, at times, a small stream

Clouds rolling in

Iringa town walks

A cool formation

Looking down on Kihesa

 

Iringa town is located on a small plateau nestled between two ranges of hills that encase the city. We are fortunate to live at the very edge of one town on the slopes of one of the sides. A short climb up the hills and there are some nice walking paths that are not too steep. There's a whole network of trails that pass through small informal farms and fallow areas. It's has the feel of the classic southern highlands grassland and if it's cloudy you can enjoy a walk at any time of the day. 

This past weekend we explored a side that we'd never visited. It's pretty fun to see the different granite boulder formations or to see some new perspectives and views of Iringa town. It was particularly cloud with some storms in the distance which made for some beautiful vistas. The views looked particularly lush with us in the midst of the rainy season as well. We managed to dodge the rain and even managed a circular loop back to our place!

Very cool cracked rock.

Local walk

 

Elephant path

January and February had more rain than normal this year but the past few weeks have been a mostly dry with a few scattered showers. We've already seen several rounds of grasses and although some plants are starting to wilt the area is still overall very green. The recent dry spell means that access to some roads has improved and we decided to take a trip out for a random bush walk. 

We're grateful that we know this area well and vast areas of wilderness are relatively easily accessible in public areas. There are several areas nearby that we have gotten to know over the years, places we can go and walk or camp for no cost and with no disturbance. As much as we like game driving, in the end you are sitting in a car all day and the experience is much different than the early morning walks taking in everything in the environment. Whether it's the barren grove of Silver Terminalia, a seasonally flooded area teaming with critters, or salt licks recently pilfered by elephants, the landscape is truly alive if you slow down to look.

Many of the migrant birds will start their journey elsewhere, whether to Europe (European Bee-eaters) or other parts of Africa (African Paradise Flycatcher). Although I appreciate our "regulars", the departure of the migrants is always a big event in the year and thus I enjoyed having the Iranias and Sprossers around for at least another day. 

We saw tracks and signs of several large mammals such as spotted hyena, greater kudu, and several elephants. In fact, the biggest drawback to walking this time of year is the decreased visibility for said elephants. It's truly amazing how quiet and concealed an African Elephant can be if it does not want to be detected. In this area where human wildlife conflict is high, previous negative interactions with humans can lead elephants to be truculent and sometimes downright aggressive. We always try to read the environment, stay aware, and always make conservative decision while trekking unarmed. 

We ended up with an uneventful though quite enjoyable 2.5 hour walk. The highlight of the walk probably came at the end where we came to an open area and saw a Eurasian Hobby overhead. A rare bird and likely on its migration, it was a harbinger for the changing of the seasons.

 

Sauti za Busara: Trip VI

 

Swahili encounters, a super band formed from artists, always one of my favorites.

My sixth trip to Sauti za Busara and the event continues to get better (Trip V)! This years event was under new management and although it retained the same feel and standard as previous years, there were a few noticeable changes. There were more food vendors inside the venue and a clever pre-paid payment system integrated into the festival wristband. The entry process was also pushed back outside the actual fort and resulted in a quicker moving triage and entry process. 

The sound system and mixing this year were great and crowds were on average with previous years. It is the perfect mix of being crowded enough you can feel the energy and size of the event but small enough that you can recognize the dedicated concert goers night after night. And most importantly, there is always enough space to dance!

I've said it before and I'll say it again, Sauti za Busara is one of the most underrated events in the world, especially for music lovers. I had never heard of one artists before attending the event, I had not even checked the program. But each year I'm blown away by unique and foreign sounds, collaborations between artists, and energy of the cosmopolitan crowd. 

Very similar to last year, the jam session super group formed by artists attending the event was one of the highlights. Titled, "Swahili Encounters" artists take turns learning each others songs and jamming out. It's cliche but it demonstrates just how powerful the language of music is. The and consisted of a saxophone (Ethiopia/Hungary), vocals (Kenya), percussion and vocals (Zimbabwe), congas (Tanzania), percussion (Tanzania), guitar (Niger), drum set (Uganda), bass (Sudan), guitar/accordion (Ethiopia). How insane and diverse is that lineup, not to mention that over half of them are female? 

My other favorite was the female duo from the island nation of Reunion, Sibu Manaï. They performed at the small amphitheater and their performance started late but they immediately won over the crowd. It was a unique set up with pre-recorded tracks and some minor looping with keyboard paired with a live percussionist and stunning vocals. The vocalists style fit the vibe of the music perfectly and by the end the crowd were singing refrains of the songs after a raucous applause?! It was an amazing performance and the artists had grateful reactions.

I unfortunately could not stay the final night but I am already looking forward to next years edition!!!