Amur Falcon Migration

 

Upper image is a male, lower is a female

One very cool thing about living in Iringa region is that we are on the migration path of the amazing and beautiful Amur Falcon. During migration, the Amur Falcon undertakes the longest regular overwater passage of any raptor (ie birds of prey, ie birds that actively hunt and eat invertebrates), crossing over the Indian Ocean between southwestern India and tropical East Africa. One does not have to be a birdwatcher to appreciate the beauty, strangeness, and power of a mass of birds filing the sky in all directions.

Absolutely insane journey

 

The Amur Falcon's migration is pretty insane and while researching this blog I found another blog post about a sanctuary in India that can receive 140,000 falcons within a 10 day period, likely representing the bulk of the population. I urge you to check out this great blog post and unbelievable photos.

We usually see the falcons in December on their way down to southern Africa and then April on their way back. There is a window of about a week where you can see them but if you miss the large group, which can possibly be only one day, then you'll likely only see a few stragglers. Much like in India, their passage coincides with the rains which in turn bring out the termites. The Amurs take the chance to take in some much needed food. 

It's always a special event when we see them as it requires one to be in the right place at the right time. This years sighting was particularly special as they were feeding on termites after a massive storm. We got to witness them feeding on the termites for an hour or so, zipping close to the ground with their numbers filling the entire visible sky in all directions! It would be impressive to see any creature in such large numbers but the fact that they are falcons makes the situation a bit surreal and imposes a sense of awe while watching them. 

I was not always a birdwatcher but I remember seeing what I now suspect was a huge Barn Swallow migration. I was perplexed at what I saw from my seat on the bus; the sky was stained with BIRDS?! I had never seen so many in the sky in my life and it was a cool moment where I felt humbled and awed by nature. 

Now that my appreciation and knowledge of birds has increased dramatically, I would love to witness one of the great annual migration spots: Veracruz in Mexico or Tarifa in Spain. These two spots are well known for migrations in their respective hemispheres due to the natural features of the earth creating a bottle neck in these spots. Veracruz is a strategic stop over point while Tarifa is located at the southern tip of Spain, where the Strait of Gibraltar narrows, making it the closest point between Europe and Africa. Remember when I wrote that the Amur Falcon is known for the longest overwater migration? Well, most birds do anything they can to avoid crossing large bodies of water for lack of opportunities to feed or rest, hence funneling to the narrowest point. 

While there are plenty of birds that migrate in Tanzania, none excite me as much as the Amur Falcons. You never know when, or if, you will see them so whenever you get the opportunity it's a major treat.

 

Iringa town walks II

 

Looking north

I recently wrote about a beautiful area right behind our house, a convenient and worthwhile trip whenever we are in Iringa town. This time of year is perfect for walks with cloud cover appreciated especially with the area situated at 1700m (5,570 ft). The rainy season also means the grasses and trees are full of green and the lush landscape provides a pretty backdrop.

Even though there was sufficient cloud cover and the weather was cool, the plateau is extremely exposed so we started our trek early. After the initial climb the majority of the walk was rather flat winding through grasslands and rocky outcrops. We occasionally had some peeks of Iringa town but otherwise the views were of the surrounding granite studded hillsides. 

When we reached the northern side of our destination the views were incredible! The trek down was rather moderate and we were lucky enough to pop out in town right next to where a public transport route begins making it an easy trip back to our place. It was a long walk, about 2 1/2 hours, and we were feeling tired for sure. It's a beautiful trek but the elevation not only wears you out quicker because of less oxygen but the effects of the sun's powerful UV rays are amplified as well. One must be relatively fit but also prepared with a hat, sunscreen, and plenty of water!

Grasslands

Valley to the east and north

Morogoro Town

View of the Uluguru Mountains to the south of the city

 

 

View of Morogoro town from the Uluguru Mountains looking north

I've always just passed through Morogoro town and had not really given it a fair visit. This past weekend we used the town as our base and enjoyed our time in the simultaneously sleepy yet bustling city. Morogoro is known for its rich farming both in the surrounding lowlands and the slopes of the Uluguru Mountains. The mountains provide a stunning backdrop whether they are covered in clouds or towering clearly above the town. 

Morogoro is not a large town with the most hectic area around the large bus terminal and surrounding area. The downtown area reminds me of Iringa where it is actually rather small and navigable but also bustling and full of commerce. The town offers a great base to explore Mikumi National Park as well as hiking the Uluguru Mountains. Apart from that there isn't much going on in and around Morogoro tourism wise though there were far more restaurants and eateries than I expected for such a small place. 

International food is represented well at the Edelwyss-Inn with spectacular views overlooking the town. There is great Indian at the Morogoro Hotel and nice Chinese at Gigas Panda. There are other popular places such as Red Chili, Cafe Mee, Ricky's Cafe, and Mambo Coffee. It makes sense that such a rich agricultural region would have a variety of eateries available and Morogoro punches above its weight. 

There are also a variety of accommodation options available from farmsteads on the outskirts (among them the well regarded Mbuyuni Farm Retreat) to more traditional hotels (Nashera Hotel, Morogoro Hotel) as well as dozens of local guesthouses available at good value.

Morogoro is a pleasant enough place and worth a visit. For backpackers it offers a glimpse into a very average Tanzanian town with some nearby hiking. For expats and residents it can be a fun trip with large properties available for families and relaxing. And for those in transit anywhere along the TANZAM highway, it's a great stopover location.

Uluguru Mountains: Tegetaro

View to the north

The Uluguru Mountains are massive and although we enjoyed our hike to Bondwa Peak, we wanted to explore a different section of the forest. We heard there was good birdwatching and hiking on the eastern side so we headed to the tiny village of Tegetaro to access the forest. 

The road from Morogoro to Kinole was a slow and gentle climb with only a few steep points. But the remainder of the road from Kinole to Tegetaro  pushed our vehicle to the absolute test with deep ravines comprised of slippery clay soil. Even more white-knuckling was that the sides had no shoulder nor embankment meaning there was a very real prospect of literally slipping off the side of the mountain! We crawled up and after two hours we eventually arrived at Tegetaro, trying not to think about the drive down. 

We met with our guide and headed through sloped agriculture fields of cassava, banana, cinnamon, and other types of crops. There were some pretty views of some waterfalls raging off the mountains across the valley. After about an hour we reached the forest edge and began the trek inside the forest. 

The forest was beautiful with many large specimens of trees that led to a typical tropical rainforest understory. It had clearly rained the day (and possibly night?) before and clouds were frequently engulfing us. I have always loved the montane rainforest when it rains because it feels right, something about the essence of such a lush environment. It wasn't along before it started raining but the forest was so thick that we were not receiving a drop of rain; we could hear the rain everywhere and we were simultaneously engulfed in a cloud of fog, but we were not accruing any moisture on ourselves! 

We hung out at the first camp but realized it was probably better to head back. We got a little wet on the way back but by the time we exited the forest the rain had let up a bit. We plan to come back to camp for at least one night...in the dry season. When we arrived back at our car, our concerned guide inquired with everyone in the village regarding the volume of rain. After getting responses indicating there was indeed a lot of rain, he then started calling people asking about the road. He suggested coming with us until we reached a safer point and we were happy to oblige. I was seriously concerned about navigating the road though we had all the tools (tow rope, shovel, machete, shovel, etc) and were ready to take it conservatively. Luckily we went down without issue but it was a nervous ride down and more reason for us to return only in the dry season.

Entering into a cloud.

The forest

Pretty foggy.

Agriculture field hike

Uluguru Mountains: Bondwa Peak

Beautiful forest

 

The Eastern Arc Mountains are one of the true hidden gems of Tanzania. The chain of mountains showcase some spectacular montane rainforest though due to competing human uses the trails are typically steep and challenging. A few years ago at the same time of the year (Easter holiday) we attempted to trek in the Uluguru Mountains but we got rained out and didn't even make it to the trailhead. Thus we were mentally prepared to get rained out this trip but figured it was worth a shot.

I was very impressed by the Tanzanian Forest Service as getting information and paying for our visit was straightforward and all done through messaging. I contacted a friend in Morogoro and she shared the contact of a forestry officer. Everything was then arranged in a very straightforward and clear manner, including directions to the meeting point, updates on conditions of the road, and the phone number of the guide. He generated a control number and I paid by MPESA and then he later sent me a photo of the receipt. 

There are many different hikes available based out of Morogoro city and I suppose we chose Bondwa Peak with the assumption that we'd pass through more untouched parts of the forest. We did not do much research but surmised that we could easily make the climb in one day. We packed some snacks and drove up the mountain to the small village of Ruvuma. 

As mentioned it was the rainy season the the road was perilous. Our RAV4 prepared admirably but there were several sections with deep ravines and slippery mud. We left the town early and drove past dozens of people ferrying down bunches of bananas which we later learned were carried to one of two markets in Morogoro. As we drove up it was relatively clear with some clouds forming over the peaks. It was difficult to know what was typical morning fog and what were more menacing rainclouds. We had packed rain jackets and a spare pair of shoes in the vehicle ready for some rain. 

When we reached Ruvuma (1030m/3,380 ft) our guide was waiting for us. We parked the vehicle by a house and set off on the trail (7:30am departure). The beginning of the trail was a gradual incline through the village and past small homesteads and then eventually passing through periphery farmland. The trail began with a moderate incline but when we reached the outskirts the trail turned significantly steeper. Considering it was the peak of the rainy season, the trail was swallowed by grasses and brush making it difficult to see the increasingly narrow trail. The views were spectacular but the trail was tough and we were happy to finally reach the old power house which marked the end of the "farmland climb" and the beginning of the forest (9:00am arrival). 

The forest trail was a wide track akin to a former logging road with an accompany electric line that ran alongside the trail most of the way. I was initially confused but learned about an active radio tower at the peak and everything made much more sense. The trail was pretty moderate, especially compared to the steep trail that we ascended through the village, and we reached the peak at around 11:15. It was predictably cloudy at the top and we greeted the caretaker of the surprisingly large facility. We enjoyed a quick break before heading back down. I was happy that we took a different trail down, this time following the wide road until much closer to the village.

We were really fortunate to not get rained on though I would not recommend trekking during the rainy season. I was also surprised at how strenuous I found the hike. I am familiar with the steep Eastern Arc trails but I guess because this route is relatively popular I thought it would be easier. It certainly requires a decent level of fitness or a much slower pace. It took us around 7 hours round trip and although we did some birdwatching our pace was relatively swift. It's also not the most lush nor pristine Eastern Arc forest specimen but relatively accessible from Morogoro. If you're set on the trek but questioning your fitness, I would suggest requesting a motorcycle taxi up to the highest point on the main road trail and then walking from there. I'm sure that it's an easier trek in the dry season and the view is likely more rewarding at the top as well!

On our way up through thick grass

Not much of a view up top

The trail was, at times, a small stream

Clouds rolling in

Iringa town walks

A cool formation

Looking down on Kihesa

 

Iringa town is located on a small plateau nestled between two ranges of hills that encase the city. We are fortunate to live at the very edge of one town on the slopes of one of the sides. A short climb up the hills and there are some nice walking paths that are not too steep. There's a whole network of trails that pass through small informal farms and fallow areas. It's has the feel of the classic southern highlands grassland and if it's cloudy you can enjoy a walk at any time of the day. 

This past weekend we explored a side that we'd never visited. It's pretty fun to see the different granite boulder formations or to see some new perspectives and views of Iringa town. It was particularly cloud with some storms in the distance which made for some beautiful vistas. The views looked particularly lush with us in the midst of the rainy season as well. We managed to dodge the rain and even managed a circular loop back to our place!

Very cool cracked rock.

Local walk

 

Elephant path

January and February had more rain than normal this year but the past few weeks have been a mostly dry with a few scattered showers. We've already seen several rounds of grasses and although some plants are starting to wilt the area is still overall very green. The recent dry spell means that access to some roads has improved and we decided to take a trip out for a random bush walk. 

We're grateful that we know this area well and vast areas of wilderness are relatively easily accessible in public areas. There are several areas nearby that we have gotten to know over the years, places we can go and walk or camp for no cost and with no disturbance. As much as we like game driving, in the end you are sitting in a car all day and the experience is much different than the early morning walks taking in everything in the environment. Whether it's the barren grove of Silver Terminalia, a seasonally flooded area teaming with critters, or salt licks recently pilfered by elephants, the landscape is truly alive if you slow down to look.

Many of the migrant birds will start their journey elsewhere, whether to Europe (European Bee-eaters) or other parts of Africa (African Paradise Flycatcher). Although I appreciate our "regulars", the departure of the migrants is always a big event in the year and thus I enjoyed having the Iranias and Sprossers around for at least another day. 

We saw tracks and signs of several large mammals such as spotted hyena, greater kudu, and several elephants. In fact, the biggest drawback to walking this time of year is the decreased visibility for said elephants. It's truly amazing how quiet and concealed an African Elephant can be if it does not want to be detected. In this area where human wildlife conflict is high, previous negative interactions with humans can lead elephants to be truculent and sometimes downright aggressive. We always try to read the environment, stay aware, and always make conservative decision while trekking unarmed. 

We ended up with an uneventful though quite enjoyable 2.5 hour walk. The highlight of the walk probably came at the end where we came to an open area and saw a Eurasian Hobby overhead. A rare bird and likely on its migration, it was a harbinger for the changing of the seasons.

 

Local walks in the rainy season

View to the south

Rainy season is in full swing and we always enjoy going on a walk in the evening. The overcast skies lend to cool temperatures and the soft light gives the landscape a subdued tinge. Many areas are overgrown so we have to stick to the trails. The grasses are also very high and full of seeds so I try to avoid too much off-roading.

Grass is booming, my allergies as well

Much greener than dry season. Understatement of the century.

Sauti za Busara: Trip VI

 

Swahili encounters, a super band formed from artists, always one of my favorites.

My sixth trip to Sauti za Busara and the event continues to get better (Trip V)! This years event was under new management and although it retained the same feel and standard as previous years, there were a few noticeable changes. There were more food vendors inside the venue and a clever pre-paid payment system integrated into the festival wristband. The entry process was also pushed back outside the actual fort and resulted in a quicker moving triage and entry process. 

The sound system and mixing this year were great and crowds were on average with previous years. It is the perfect mix of being crowded enough you can feel the energy and size of the event but small enough that you can recognize the dedicated concert goers night after night. And most importantly, there is always enough space to dance!

I've said it before and I'll say it again, Sauti za Busara is one of the most underrated events in the world, especially for music lovers. I had never heard of one artists before attending the event, I had not even checked the program. But each year I'm blown away by unique and foreign sounds, collaborations between artists, and energy of the cosmopolitan crowd. 

Very similar to last year, the jam session super group formed by artists attending the event was one of the highlights. Titled, "Swahili Encounters" artists take turns learning each others songs and jamming out. It's cliche but it demonstrates just how powerful the language of music is. The and consisted of a saxophone (Ethiopia/Hungary), vocals (Kenya), percussion and vocals (Zimbabwe), congas (Tanzania), percussion (Tanzania), guitar (Niger), drum set (Uganda), bass (Sudan), guitar/accordion (Ethiopia). How insane and diverse is that lineup, not to mention that over half of them are female? 

My other favorite was the female duo from the island nation of Reunion, Sibu Manaï. They performed at the small amphitheater and their performance started late but they immediately won over the crowd. It was a unique set up with pre-recorded tracks and some minor looping with keyboard paired with a live percussionist and stunning vocals. The vocalists style fit the vibe of the music perfectly and by the end the crowd were singing refrains of the songs after a raucous applause?! It was an amazing performance and the artists had grateful reactions.

I unfortunately could not stay the final night but I am already looking forward to next years edition!!!

Ferry to Zanzibar

One of the ferries

 

My favorite way to get to Zanzibar is the Azam Fast Ferry. Flying is very cheap as well but the faff of the airport procedures can make the ferry a more desirable option. While there are several ferries that service Zanzibar, the safety and reliability can be extremely variable and thus I recommend Azam Fast Ferry. They are organized and professional amongst the relative chaos at the port.

I was pleasantly surprised that I was able to actually purchase tickets online for this trip. In the past you could reserve tickets but still had to enter their office to pay upon arrival. This doesn't sound like a huge deal but the port is one of the most hectic transport hubs in Tanzania. There are touts from several companies and no matter which mode of transport you take to arrive, your vehicle will be completely swarmed upon arrival. I assume the guys get a commission for every customer and the environment is peak aggressive salesman. People will grab your bags, your arms, try to separate your group, feed you misinformation, straight up lie about what is available; all tactics are on the table. There are a few notable transport hubs that I have frequented in my life that offer such chaos. 

If you've got your ticket you can get dropped straight at the gate. There is an initial ticket check and a short walk down to a security screening. There is not much organization so you have to be careful to ensure your bag is actually moving through the scanner and then jostle to pick it up on the other side. It is usually very hot in this part of the port and the area then opens up to the holding pen. There is a section in the back for economy, then a small area for business (with fans) and a separate self-contained air conditioned area for VIP tickets. They do a good job loading the ferry in an orderly fashion and it's rather quick to get onboard. 

The company has a few different ferries and they rotate throughout the many trips a day. From my experience it's totally worth it to get at least a business class ticket to allow for interior seating with air conditioning. The deck can be alluring but the reality of the sun, wind and waves is less than romantic. And one still has access to the deck if you want to stroll around. We have purchased the "VIP" tickets when business class is sold out and although the chairs are much larger and more comfortable, in my opinion it's not so much different than business class.

I've taken probably three different ferries and all the seats are comfortable and spacious. There is a small stall selling beverages and snacks, kudos to Azam for vertical integration as all the soft drinks are Azam brand. 

The ferry takes about 1:45 to complete. It always feels like a little longer than what I remembered but the time passes quickly especially if the seas are calm. The disembarking procedure is equally as quickly and relatively orderly. Overall the ferry is a great way to cross back and forth between Zanzibar and Dar es Salaam.

Inside the lounge in Zanzibar, much better than the Dar side

Outdoor seating isn't bad

Business class seating is nice!

Zanzibar: Pwani Mchangani

 

Drying out the ocean product

We enjoy visiting different parts of Zanzibar whenever we have a chance. We are particularly fond of the northeast with its quiet and pristine beaches. This trip we elected to stay at a small hotel with 10 or so rooms in Pwani Mchangani. The village proper was located a little south of our hotel and the north was nearly deserted. 

The area was extremely quiet with hotels sparsely dotting the coastline with large tracks of land lightly fenced or left fallow. The evening walks were beautiful passing a group of tourists playing volleyball, a local football game, and the usual tout trying to sell a massage, snorkeling tomorrow, or kitsch souvenirs. When I was recently in Spain I met someone that had just returned from a trip to Tanzania. I asked how he enjoyed the trip and he said he liked it but in Zanzibar he couldn't walk the beach because of all the harassment from the touts. I feel for him as I see the aggressive, often Maasai, harangue all the tourists. I know exactly how to deal with it in a polite yet firm way in Swahili so it's just a minor annoyance but I realize not everyone has that luxury. And the beach touts are on every single beach in Zanzibar so I hope everyone has their strategy of how to deal with it!

Some evenings the beach was quite deserted while others there were many people both foreign and local taking a stroll. The breeze blew strong off the water we were mostly greeted to cloudy mornings opening up to sunny days with some wind. The area had a similar feel to Matemwe, a stones throw to the north. The only downside to this area is that due to the sparse collection of hotels, sometimes you may be captive to your hotels food, especially for dinner. It's great if your hotel serves excellent food but if not places like Paje have an advantage of numerous easily accessible food choices.

Empty beach

Zanzibar: Mnemba Snorkeling Trip II

 

Amazing water

 

I had a great time on my previous trip to Mnemba and had looked forward to going again (Trip I). I gotta big up One Ocean Diving Zanzibar for their continued excellence in operating a relatively large scale trip. They offered free pick up and drop off from hotels in the area and our ride was a bit late so when we arrived to their office we were initially a bit shocked by the 20 or so people gathered there. We got suited up and loaded onto their in house daladalas. It's a pretty clever way to transport large groups of people, especially afterwards when people are wet. 

When we reached the docking point I was surprised at the huge amount of people, not only from our group but from several others. It was like an exodus down to the shore. A large hotel has recently been constructed and as a result there are several stands with curio and other goods with a long line of entrepreneurs hawking their wares. 

The level of service and experience was as I remembered it. The only drawback to this trip was how crowded the second snorkel site was. We were wading between boats and anchors and I suppose it's the cost of an amazing site in an area with many tourists. Either way it wasn't enough to spoil the experience and the first snorkel site was totally open.

Ready to jump in?

Zanzibar public transport: Buses

 

One of the most characteristic things of Zanzibar are the buses. The buses are more like converted short chassis flat-bed trucks which results in a short and cramped space to sit. There are wooden benches lining the interior and although it can be tight it is actually a cozy situation with at least some opportunity for airflow. There are some seriously impressive loads carried by these buses normally stacked on the roof. The buses and routes are indicated by a number and it's pretty easy and straightforward to navigate any bus to your destination.

I have a great memory of my brother once visiting. We took a bus to Paje and on the way it got pretty full. However, I knew it was nowhere near to it's full capacity. My brother commented that it was pretty packed just as we were pulling up to a group full of school kids. I knew he'd get a kick out of just how many more school children could fit inside!

Rainy season walks

One of the advantages of rainy season is the temperature and general climate. In the dry season it's best to get out around sunrise and after an hour or so the temperature climbs. If it's overcast in the rainy season you can go on a walk in the late morning or early afternoon without it being particularly hot and sunny. 

We recently enjoyed a walk in the foothills. The area was rich with critters and life though the larger fauna spreads out across the landscape and is thus more difficult to spot. The lack of large fauna is made up for with the flora and insects, in particular the grasses and beetles. I particular enjoy the tracks and signs this time of year, it's much easier to discern recent presence of particular wildlife than in the dry season and prints are usually very clear in wet substrate.

Rainy season

Our backyard.

I love a good rainy and dry season comparison photo. This years rainy season was predicted to have an above average rainfall influenced by El Nino. This last occurred here in 2024, which was quite a doozy for sure. This years rains have not been very significant in Iringa region but a recent surge in January has the landscape bursting with green. It's been so consistently wet that there has been a surge in fungi not typically seen in such number and diversity. 

The rainy season not only provides a lush backdrop with trees full of leaves and grasses spring up from everywhere, but also a total change in the aural experience. The birds are full of songs of migrants and breeding calls and insects fill the background both day and night. All the insects are incredibly impressive, it seems like you just need to look closely and you'll discover every single shrub is occupied by a myriad of insects. Unfortunately this means there are mosquitos, a critical insect that is happily absent in the dry season. 

I really enjoy the rainy season for the richness of life and cool overcast days. It's difficult to manage the mud in our work environment and laundry is tough to dry, but it provides a welcome change of seasons from the longer and harsher dry season.

Dogs at camp

I've written about some incidents with the dogs at camp but I haven't really blogged about their overall presence and the life here at camp (dogs and tortoise, vet bush doc, dogs and toads). Full disclosure, I had never been a dog owner before coming to this camp. 

In most developing countries dogs play the role of security. In urban areas it is not uncommon for them to be locked in a cage all day and patrolling the outside at night. In the villages they are lightly cared for as a utilitarian companion but not as a loving pet. Dogs are rarely given any type of medical treatment nor is there typically any physical contact between dog owner and dog. They'll lurk for scraps but not be invited inside rather used as a sentry. 

We've always had dogs at our camp for light security purposes. I think previous camp managers were also dog lovers and the tough conditions in this area means that life spans are short. We had a dog for work purposes, an Anatolian Shephard, and she was actually the source of my interest in dogs as a companion. Long story short, I thought we could use a puppy so I put the word out to staff and the next day three puppies were delivered to our camp. 

We were initially brought three, even though I only requested one. When I asked the driver why they brought three he simple stated that one was likely to die (to his credit, one did). He decided to take one for his home and we kept two. We immediately noticed they were very young and it turns out they were three weeks old, which is completely against the recommended time of around eight weeks.

Maji's eyes were very blue at this time, hence his name which means "water" in Swahili.

Moto had a burn mark across his rump, hence his name which means "fire" in Swahili.

The puppies needed a lot of care but luckily we had two other dogs around to help. Hodari was an Anatolian Shephard, on the tail end of life with a mysterious growth in her liver. Camp was basically hospice care for her after a life with the local pastoralists helping to protect their livestock. Hodari was a dog of magnificent personality; hard headed, intelligent, stoic, loyal and physically, she was massive. I had never experienced such an interesting dog personality and spending time caring for her opened my eyes to the world of dogs. 

We also had Poppy, a nearly blind warrior of a local dog. He was actually somewhere in the bloodline of Maji and Moto and had originally been acquired with the purpose of breeding with an Anatolian. That had not been successful and Poppy may or may not have suffered psychological damage as well as a result of being emasculated and dominated by the larger dog. He had suffered a bite in his face by a black-necked spitting cobra and his eye sight was poor though his sense of smell was still excellent. 

Maji and Moto were both way more playful than Poppy and Hodari though Hodari would have her moments of playfulness. Maji especially learned a lot of Hodari's mannerisms, most notably shaking her head from side to side and yawn/groaning when she was excited to see you. Maji and Moto both like to occasionally cross their forelegs while laying down, something Hodari did a lot. Is that learned or just a normal dog thing? 

We kept Maji and Moto in their large dog pen at night but let them roam free during the day. We tried to do a fair amount of training with them, walking the boundary and basic commands such as "come" and "no". As they grew they became familiar with the camp and all the people here. We are clearly their primary owners but they do have a pecking order of favored people. Many of our staff have found their behavior and our training amusing and a handful of them are quasi-affectionate giving an occasional proper pat on the head or scratch behind the ear. 

I often marvel at the small size of their world. They go absolutely bananas at new stimuli, I remember one time a hedgehog found its way into their pen one night. They were terrified and barking until it was removed and then even the next evening they were hesitant to return to the pen. They showed similar fear at the tortoise and even a chicken that was brought for slaughter. 

 

The dogs enjoy a leash and cage free life, with a diet of dog biscuits supplemented a few times a week with "dog meat" from the butcher in Iringa. They certainly serve their purpose of being a security tool for the camp while also companions for the staff. Both have matured into their own distinct personality with Moto being a much more disciplined, affectionate and personable dog while Maji retains a scrappy "food over everything' run of the litter type attitude. Both Poppy and Hodari have since passed so now it's Maji and Moto's time to rule the camp!