Sunday, November 26, 2023

Rainy vs dry season in Pwani Region

 

An area at camp
 

I have written about our new camp in Pwani region and the climate is quite different than our Iringa base. The rains have started about a month before Iringa and the area is far wetter and lush than our acacia/commiophora dominated landscape in Iringa. We were here two months ago and it was the end of the dry season with sparse vegetation with plenty of sand. Upon our return we've been greeted by a lush landscape, hot and humid! And this is after the first month of rains, we have several more months to go and I look forward to seeing how lush this place gets.


The last trip we had an incredible variety of spiders. This time it's millipedes!

View of our banda

Fruit: Papaya

 

Color of the "red" papaya in comparison to strawberries and watermelon

One of the most misunderstood fruits is the humble papaya. Those who are from non-tropical countries may be more familiar with papaya as an exotic salad garnish or an additive to a skin treatment concoction. In the tropics it is typically widely available as it is easy to grow and each tree produces numerous fruits. They are the kind of fruit that you see growing in random places in villages and yards as the seeds are easily disbursed and it is hearty enough to grow in all types of environments.

Like all fruits, there are a myriad of varieties grown though most people are familiar with the two most popular varieties which can be easily distinguished by their internal color; one is yellow and the other is red. The yellow-fleshed papaya have a stronger taste with a slightly bitter taste. The red-fleshed papaya tend to be sweeter lacking the bitterness of the yellow. Both varieties have the interesting feature that they are odorless when cut.

Regarding ripeness, this is where things get interesting. First, there are some culinary traditions (especially in SE Asia) that make use of unripe or green papaya so it is possible to eat them when they are unripe. Most of the time people enjoy them when they are slightly soft though others may enjoy them more when they are softer, nearly mushy. As they ripen the flavors become more pronounced and this is where things truly become controversial. Many people are disgusted by slightly overripe papaya reporting that it smells like vomit or they gag when they try to eat it. I theorize that this is similar to how cilantro is viewed by people with a certain genetic make up. I personally have this revulsion with yellow papayas and can only enjoy them when they are unripe or barely ripe. This does not extend to the red papayas as I find them absolutely delicious (see photo above). 

Many people recommend sprinkling lemon or lime on papaya which may add some zest to the flavor profile. I don't feel like it makes a huge difference but I do encourage people to explore the range of ripeness and variety  to find their personal preference. They tend to be very cheap and healthy so adding it to your diet is advantageous.

10 years in Tanzania!

This month marks the 10 year anniversary of our arrival to Tanzania! I vividly remember being in my brother's house in Denver when I got an email with my initial job offer. I had gone through several interviews with many organizations all over the world and in my mind Tanzania was just another of the dozens of countries that I was sending job applications off to. But after reading the confirmation email I checked the Wikipedia page for Tanzania and noted that Mt. Kilimanjaro was there  as well as Serengeti National park, otherwise I was very unfamiliar with the country. I did note that the official languages were English and Swahili though it would be clear upon arrival that Swahili was the lingua franca of the country. At the time we were on an open ended trip and thus had to pack up immediately, pass through my hometown as well as pass through Ana's home town (in a different country) before we were onward to Moshi. I think I was offered the job on the 11th of October and made it to Moshi by the 11th of November. 

I've spent nearly my entire 30s in Tanzania and have grown immensely professionally having first arrived as a coordinator before a series of internal promotions and new jobs led me to a director level role. I got married in a Tanzanian courthouse, bought my first (and second) vehicle here, and lived in two separate regions (Kilimanjaro and then Iringa). I've learned Swahili to a level that allows me to be proficient in work and general; fluent is a strong word but I am proud of my level of language abilities here. 

Having a partner from another country means that we spend our annual monthly holiday split between our home countries but we have been incredibly lucky to have spent a fair amount of time traveling within Tanzania (proof is, this blog). There are still plenty of areas that we've not yet visited would like to; an overland trip to Mahale National Park in western Tanzania, exploring the shores of Lake Tanganyika, hiking through the Ngorongoro Highlands en route to Lake Natron, Pemba Island remains unexplored, as well as southern Tanzania around the Ruvuma river. And that's not even considering all the places that we've already been before and are old time favorites! I am hopeful that when the time comes to leave Tanzania for good, we'll be able to go on an extended road trip to explore all the places we haven't had time for and bid farewell to our favorite places.

This is a bit of a niche statistics but we are keen birdwatchers and have seen 773 species since coming to Tanzania. One of the more interesting statistics that we've managed to see a new species every year, something which is becoming increasingly difficult though we have not had to make an intentional trip to tick this box.

Some of my favorite anecdotes...

-The one time someone in Singida had the same phone number as me. We were living in Moshi at the time and for several weeks Tigo had issued my number to an individual in Singida, apparently involved in some type of agriculture. I received phone calls and texts for weeks looking for this person and he likely experienced the same inconvenience of having people calling him looking for me. 

-The arrival of speed radar guns, causing chaos on the road with traffic police. Previous to the radar guns arrival there was no hard evidence of traffic violations and thus, for better or for worse, less enforcement of the painstaking 50km zones on the main highway. 

-The digitization of the government payments. The traffic police used to get paid on the spot at a traffic stop only issuing an official "gold paper" receipt. Seeing them gives me PTSD to a time of inefficiencies and opaqueness. I also remember paying national park entry fees with cash something which is now forbidden.

-Our first big break down, failure of the injector pump, after a perilous and long drive to Lake Natron and back. I was relieved that we were at least near to a larger town on the highway where there were plenty of opportunities for help. We had just driven through some very sparsely populated landscapes and thus I expressed our good fortune, much to the chagrin and alternate perspective of Ana. The "garage" was open air and when rain poured the entire afternoon the reality that we would not make it back to work the next day settled in. We were about to board a bus but the mechanic finished at the last minute. 

-The fact that I am 10 years in, claimed I am close to fluent in Swahili, and just realized this week that Swahili has no Q, X or Z in their alphabet. I mean, I obviously have not used them but having never formally learned Swahili (though I do have reference books) I clearly missed this interesting feature of Swahili.

Saturday, November 11, 2023

Ruaha National Park November trip

 

Not a very moist landscape

I've written about Ruaha National Park at the end of dry season before (One, two) but this trip took place at the very end of dry season. There is a saying that the night is darkest before dawn and the same can be said that the area is driest before rainy season (though it doesn't really roll off the tongue the same...). The state of the Ruaha River was grim, with no flowing water and only sparse disconnected pools. Some were packed with hippos that were constantly grumbling and jockeying for space. 

The visibility was excellent with many of the grasses trampled or eaten and the vegetation was very thin. Views along the Ruaha and Mwagusi River were expansive and it was easy to spot game from far. We saw plenty of impala, a larger than usual number of warthogs and zebra, and very few elephants. The highlight of the trip was an early morning encounter with a pair of African Wild Dogs. 

For tourism operators this time of year is the "shoulder" season and there were very few guests. Each day we saw only one vehicle and we spent plenty of time in the most popular tourist areas.