Monday, December 12, 2016

Shagayu Forest Reserve

Beginning our hike amongst the clouds.
The unique rainforest habitats in the Eastern Arc Mountains are one of our favorite places to visit in Tanzania. With dozens of forest reserves scattered anywhere from 1 1/2 to 8 hours from us, we've spent the last few years exploring as many of the pockets of forests as possible. This weekend we went to the Shagayu Forest Reserve in the West Usambara Mountains.

It took us about seven hours from Moshi to reach our main base outside the forest. We had arranged with two local guides to hike to the peak and camp, and descend the following day. We were a little concerned because from where we stayed in Mambo, we couldn't see the forest, rather we could only see clear cut areas for agricultures or pine plantations. We were also concerned because the area appeared to have their short rainy season at this time and combined with the elevation, it was quite wet! Still, we prepared the best we could and we've had many hikes in the Eastern Arcs with a bit of rain. After all, you can't expect to visit a rainforest without, rain?

When we left Mambo in the morning our spirits were high and our backpacks were loaded. We walked through the village and cut up through a pine plantation at which point we could see the forest. After about an hour we reached the forest reserve and started our trek. One of the things we love about montane rainforest is the fact that small peak receives different amounts of moisture and sun and provides a variety of habitats as you walk.

We reached a rock face for lunch and it provided an amazing view over some forest covered mountains with the plains in the far distance. It was awesome to get a view of the forest and we were told the peak doesn't actually have a very nice view so it was the best vista we would get. After a nice lunch it began to rain and our pace quickened so we could reach the top. It started as a classic rainforest misty rain and then quickly evolved into a downpour. Within 10 seconds we were soaked to the bone. We pressed on for a few more hours and finally reached the  peak. There was a large rock face that created a mini shelter but we were also pleased to see the rain had stopped on the top of the mountain. We quickly set up camp and made a fire, which was a struggle with all the wet wood. Things were looking good and we managed to half dry some of our items when the rain came again. We finished our dinner in the tent and went to sleep early. Very early.

In the morning we woke up in a cloud. Although it wasn't raining, it was pretty moist. We managed to start a fire and have a quick breakfast before heading down. The forest closest to the peak was the most stunning and we didn't have the time to properly appreciate on the way up. It was so lush and green with lichen and moss growing on every possible surface. Unfortunately, the rain started again and we upped our pace as we descended.

The rain finally cleared as we neared the edge of the forest reserve. We were happy to be somewhat dry, although we still had to hike a few hours to get back to the village. We had an amazing time at the forest reserve and for me personally it ranks high up on the list of the forests of the Eastern Arcs.

Stopping to get water. Check out how big those ferns are!

Lunch spot.

Our very wet campsite.

In the morning the sun was shining for about five minutes.

Dripping with moss and lichen!

The sun was trying to burn off some moisture but it wasn't possible!

Our lunch spot the second day, though we cut it short as the clouds won out over the tiny bit of sun.

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