Mikumi National Park: Trip II

Vultures stopping for a drink.

This weekend we took our second trip to Mikumi National Park (Trip I). Mikumi NP offers something different than Ruaha National Park and being only 3 1/2 hours away it's a doable trip on a weekend. On our last trip to the park we explored the northern part of the park which mainly consisted of flooded grassland and some man-made pools of water. On this trip we decided we'd drive the northern section in the morning and in the afternoon head south to the Miombo woodland hills.

We left Iringa mid-afternoon on Friday and arrived to our guesthouse Friday in time for dinner. It was only a half hour from the gate so we were ready to go at 6am on Friday and spent the morning on the main tourist game drive circuit in the north. We didn't see any carnivores but managed to see wildebeest, elephant, zebra, giraffe, eland, warthog, Bohor Reedbuck, and stunning views of a male Bushbuck and an up close encounter with a big crocodile. My favorite part of the morning was getting stuck between a herd of over 100 buffalo. All of them skittishly faced us and smelled for us. It was a bit unnerving to have them all focused on us!

Ana watching a croc slide by.

We lucked out and found the cottages/headquarters with some dining options. We were a little early at noon but had a coffee and some overpriced (15,000tsh) chips and chicken, then headed back out. All the bandas and campsites that we visited were quite well done with a range of amenities from cottages to camping sites.

The real highlight of the trip was venturing into the less visited Vuma Hills part of the park. We explored the southern side and found a waterhole with over 70 vultures drinking. We followed the road along east and saw a half-constructed and dilapidated lodge overlooking a waterhole with loads of waterbirds. We then headed south and up into the hills passing through some gorgeous Miombo woodland. The landscape shifted from a mosaic to a well developed Miombo woodland surrounded by rolling hills. The area was quiet and felt very wild. We ended up on the far western side at a lodge and were unsure if we were in our outside the park. We took a road that had likely been used no more then once this season and it proved adventurous with detours at treefalls, and unexpected termite mound holes.

When we arrived to the lodge we weren't sure how to get out. We shouted for assistance but no one came and we kinda checked out the lodge until 15 minutes later someone came to point us in the right direction. We took a road straight down and managed to get out of the park by 630pm. After a long day it was nice to get out and the vastly different landscapes of the park made it feel like we had done two days in one!

Lone Zebra in the grass.

At man-made waterhole with some other wildlife.

In the Miombo woodland.

Iringa: Basketball

View of the courts to the east with the event hall and other buildings in the background

When I was younger I was very active in team sports and I've found it's a great way to connect with people abroad. Much like language, I am forced to pick up whatever the locals play. I remember learning to play cricket in Jamaica and soccer in Nigeria. But a sport that I am familiar with is basketball, though it's difficult to find a court and enough players given the lack of popularity for basketball. When I was living in Uganda I was lucky enough to find access to a basketball court and enough players for full court. And luck strikes again as I've found a regular spot in Iringa.

There is a basketball court in a large complex of a Lutheran church. The area is labeled a student center but there is a large event hall (I attended a meeting there with 1,000 people), several buildings, and a large field where people also play football. There have been events there such as a DSTV fun day and a medical outreach activity. Every day there are around 50 kids that meet at a building and practice church song and dance. It's really a fantastic recreation center and the court is in decent shape. It also has a beautiful view of the hills on the east and west of Iringa with a nice sunset every evening. 

Kichangani basketball is a loose group of around six regulars and 15 people that rotate. There are usually enough players for full court and the skill level is typically enough for the game to be fun. The thing I love the most is although the guys play hard they are not fouling hard or driving the lane recklessly, the type of stuff that leads to injuries. Everyone plays safe and respectfully and more importantly, plays to have fun. We meet around 5:30pm and play till it's dark, around 7pm. The majority of the guys are probably between 20-25 with one other guy around my age.

At the end of every game we gather in a circle and take turns giving feedback of the days game. Then we hold hands in a circle, say a little prayer, and then do an old school call and response where one person says "Kichangani" and the others shout "basketball!". It's all rather wholesome!

View to the west

Ruaha National Park: Dry season trip

View east from a hill.

One of my favorite things about visiting Ruaha in the dry season is the unique palette of colors the landscape displays. Viewed in isolation the orange sandy soil and grey leafless trees seem unimpressive but as a whole a myriad of oranges, browns, yellows and greys provide an unexpectedly beautiful landscape.  Depending on the time of the day the sun might illuminate the brown grasses or bounce off the orange soils with the light affecting the landscape in subtle ways. I'm always taken aback at how much I enjoy the aesthetic in the brutal heat even with no wildlife present. There is something alluring about all the dormant plants just enduring the hardships of no rain, harsh sun, and wind.

We were lucky enough to be able to explore the park on foot this trip but unfortunately had to work through the hot day. Wildlife was sparse around Msembe and Ruaha River Lodge but we did manage to see a pair of Wild Dogs early one morning, which makes ANY trip a success!

Checking out the river.

Giraffe in the riverbed

Classic dry Ruaha landscape.

Sunrise on the hill.