The dogs and the tortoise

 

Who is the boss here?

 

In the rainy season it is common to see Leopard Tortoises strolling around, some are huge (the biggest specimens have been reported to be up to 60 kg/132 lbs) while others are tiny. One recently came through camp and the camp dogs were agitated beyond belief. I imagine that they usually flush anything out with aggressive barking but due to their speed and natural fortification, the tortoises stand their ground or just carry on. I think the dogs are flummoxed by the lack of respect and it makes them nervy. 

They eventually made their way to sniff the tortoise and I felt the need to intervene on behalf of the poor guy. I shooed off the dogs and let the tortoise be on its way.

Ruaha National Park: End of the dry season

 

Consumed buffalo

One of my favorite times to visit the park is after the first rains in late November. I feel there is a strong chance for a small rain in October, of which provides immense relief after months of arid heat, and then the first real rain of the year sometime in November. The end of the dry season is an amazing time as the landscape slowly transforms itself filling with insects, grasses and migrating wildlife. It's difficult to articulate just exactly how tough conditions are at the end of six months without any rain but the landscape feels completely parched. Even though wildlife is easier to find congregating closer to permanent water sources, it can almost feel apocalyptic with how dry conditions are. 

With that being said, I was thrilled to find myself in the park a few days after some rain. In the morning it was overcast giving way to picturesque Ruaha conditions and in the afternoon the sky was vivid blue with striking massive white cumulus clouds. 

We saw loads of wildlife with a big herd of buffalo around the Mwagusi and a pride of nearly a dozen lions following close behind. Even without the wildlife it would have been one of my favorite trips of the year. Something about the transforming and relieved landscape is palpable along with the beautiful light and colors of freshly germinated plants...

A totally maneless male.