Times in Tanzania: Uluguru Mountains: Bondwa Peak

Beautiful forest

The Eastern Arc Mountains are one of the true hidden gems of Tanzania. The chain of mountains showcase some spectacular montane rainforest though due to competing human uses the trails are typically steep and challenging. A few years ago at the same time of the year (Easter holiday) we attempted to trek in the Uluguru Mountains but we got rained out and didn't even make it to the trailhead. Thus we were mentally prepared to get rained out this trip but figured it was worth a shot.

I was very impressed by the Tanzanian Forest Service as getting information and paying for our visit was straightforward and all done through messaging. I contacted a friend in Morogoro and she shared the contact of a forestry officer. Everything was then arranged in a very straightforward and clear manner, including directions to the meeting point, updates on conditions of the road, and the phone number of the guide. He generated a control number and I paid by MPESA and then he later sent me a photo of the receipt.

There are many different hikes available based out of Morogoro city and I suppose we chose Bondwa Peak with the assumption that we'd pass through more untouched parts of the forest. We did not do much research but surmised that we could easily make the climb in one day. We packed some snacks and drove up the mountain to the small village of Ruvuma.

As mentioned it was the rainy season the the road was perilous. Our RAV4 prepared admirably but there were several sections with deep ravines and slippery mud. We left the town early and drove past dozens of people ferrying down bunches of bananas which we later learned were carried to one of two markets in Morogoro. As we drove up it was relatively clear with some clouds forming over the peaks. It was difficult to know what was typical morning fog and what were more menacing rainclouds. We had packed rain jackets and a spare pair of shoes in the vehicle ready for some rain.

When we reached Ruvuma (1030m/3,380 ft) our guide was waiting for us. We parked the vehicle by a house and set off on the trail (7:30am departure). The beginning of the trail was a gradual incline through the village and past small homesteads and then eventually passing through periphery farmland. The trail began with a moderate incline but when we reached the outskirts the trail turned significantly steeper. Considering it was the peak of the rainy season, the trail was swallowed by grasses and brush making it difficult to see the increasingly narrow trail. The views were spectacular but the trail was tough and we were happy to finally reach the old power house which marked the end of the "farmland climb" and the beginning of the forest (9:00am arrival).

The forest trail was a wide track akin to a former logging road with an accompany electric line that ran alongside the trail most of the way. I was initially confused but learned about an active radio tower at the peak and everything made much more sense. The trail was pretty moderate, especially compared to the steep trail that we ascended through the village, and we reached the peak at around 11:15. It was predictably cloudy at the top and we greeted the caretaker of the surprisingly large facility. We enjoyed a quick break before heading back down. I was happy that we took a different trail down, this time following the wide road until much closer to the village.

We were really fortunate to not get rained on though I would not recommend trekking during the rainy season. I was also surprised at how strenuous I found the hike. I am familiar with the steep Eastern Arc trails but I guess because this route is relatively popular I thought it would be easier. It certainly requires a decent level of fitness or a much slower pace. It took us around 7 hours round trip and although we did some birdwatching our pace was relatively swift. It's also not the most lush nor pristine Eastern Arc forest specimen but relatively accessible from Morogoro. If you're set on the trek but questioning your fitness, I would suggest requesting a motorcycle taxi up to the highest point on the main road trail and then walking from there. I'm sure that it's an easier trek in the dry season and the view is likely more rewarding at the top as well!