Ruaha National Park: Dry season trip

View east from a hill.

One of my favorite things about visiting Ruaha in the dry season is the unique palette of colors the landscape displays. Viewed in isolation the orange sandy soil and grey leafless trees seem unimpressive but as a whole a myriad of oranges, browns, yellows and greys provide an unexpectedly beautiful landscape.  Depending on the time of the day the sun might illuminate the brown grasses or bounce off the orange soils with the light affecting the landscape in subtle ways. I'm always taken aback at how much I enjoy the aesthetic in the brutal heat even with no wildlife present. There is something alluring about all the dormant plants just enduring the hardships of no rain, harsh sun, and wind.

We were lucky enough to be able to explore the park on foot this trip but unfortunately had to work through the hot day. Wildlife was sparse around Msembe and Ruaha River Lodge but we did manage to see a pair of Wild Dogs early one morning, which makes ANY trip a success!

Checking out the river.

Giraffe in the riverbed

Classic dry Ruaha landscape.

Sunrise on the hill.

Mikumi National Park: Trip I

We finally got the opportunity to visit Mikumi National Park, a unique park that's often less visited by foreigners due to its location and lower density of wildlife compared to the northern parks. It is, however, widely visited by local Tanzanians as a result of being in relative close proximity to Dar es Salaam and thus the animals are reasonably habituated allowing for easy viewing. It is also unique in that a major highway runs through the park, the TANZAM highway, which means it provides a free opportunity to view wildlife for locals and foreigners alike that drive through the area. It's somewhat overshadowed by other parks in Tanzania since it's not on the northern tourist circuit and lacks the abundance or variety in wildlife but it's still relatively easy to see lions, elephants, buffalo and a variety of other species.

The park is mostly dry miombo woodland and flood-pain grassland so dry season allows for much more accessibility in the northern half of the park. We weren't so much focused on seeing any particular animal but we were more interested in seeing the different areas of the park. As a result we drove to the northeast and looped around to the northwest and back south towards the more touristy areas. It was very different than Ruaha National Parks with multiple coasters and buses full of people but once we got off the main track we did not see any other cars. Although the wildlife density was low, the variety of ungulates was impressive. We saw hippo, warthog, zebra, eland, giraffe, buffalo, bushbuck, suni, natal duiker, bush duiker, Bohor Reedbuck, impala,  and wildebeest.

We realized that we have been unfairly neglecting Mikumi NP and that with its proximity to Iringa (3.5 hours) it's an easy weekend for laid back wildlife viewing. It has several man-made waterholes which make wildlife viewing in the dry season more predictable and the grasslands make viewing much easier. We'll definitely take more trips in the future!

Lake Ngwazi

Along the main highway between Iringa and Mbeya is a massive pine plantation which also happens to have two lakes. There is a large lake, Lake Ngwazi, and a smaller reservoir with a neighboring wetland. It's an easy drive from Iringa with some nice birdwatching opportunities so this week we decided to pop down there and check it out.

I'm not sure the area is geared towards the public so we just followed roads on satellite imagery winding through the plantation. We eventually found our way to Lake Ngwazi but were seemingly on the wrong side of the lake. There were some buildings and tea fields on the other side but we didn't drive all the way around. Instead we drove along the northern side of the lake stopping to watch birds occasionally but there wasn't much going on.

We continued along to the smaller lake and found a place to park and went on a nice walk. There was a small dam and a wetlands where we saw a Whyte's Water Snake and a variety of other birds. The chilly highlands air was perfect with the sunshine. We saw a pastoralist out in the distance with some cows coming to drink but otherwise the area was very quiet.

We really enjoyed the area and it would be great to do some camping there. For a day visit it's a little far from Iringa but it does offer a nice place to get out and walk so even a packed lunch day could be excellent. 

Ruaha National Park: May 2019

Famous Baobab tree

The park is beautiful this time of year. I'll let the pictures speak for themselves!

Zanzibar: Kiwengwa Caves

We were looking for something to do on the way back to Stonetown from Matemwe Beach and we saw that Kiwengwa Caves were nearby. The destination did not seem very popular and our taxi driver wasn't familiar with it. He tried to talk us into going to another cave but relented when I told him we should just check it out.

The caves were used historically for a variety of reason, including, according to the guide, hideouts for people during war time and prisoners and slaves awaiting transport. The local forest area was a huge resource for local people but the use was unsustainable and as a result, the caves and forest were gazetted as the Kiwengwa-Pongwe Forest Reserve in 2005. The cave constructed the walkways and other infrastructure in 2009.

We were really impressed by the caves for their length and uniqueness. There are two passageways, a north and a south. The north side goes 200+ meters in and is full of bats which are cool to see and hear fluttering around. They are a small variety and seemingly harmless. We did see some pretty gigantic spiders which the guide claims are dangerous. Even when we reached the end there was space to continue if one wanted to crawl.

On the south side there were stunning natural holes in the ceiling offering a window to the forest. The light coming into the darkness was stunningly beautiful and roots of trees had grown through the top of the cave in several places. It was another 200 or so meters and we visited two separate chambers in that area.

The excursion did not take very long but was totally worthwhile. The guide had a few torches but they were low on battery and only a few worked well, so if you go it's best to bring your own head torch!

Zanzibar: Villa Kiva

Max relax

We recently stayed a few nights in Villa Kiva in Matemwe Beach and could not have been happier with our stay. The rooms were tasteful and furnished appropriately, the grounds were spacious and varied, and the staff was friendly and helpful. Even though it was the low season and thus wasn't at capacity, I think even with full occupancy there is enough space for it to not be crowded. We lucked out and got a great low season deal on an elevated seaview room. With a small porch we could sit and read while taking in the beautiful views of the ocean. We could even hear the ocean from our room at night.

The breakfast was phenomenal, with a huge spread of fruits and homemade pastries. The food in general was fantastic and the Italian influence (the owners are Italian) is evident. High grade olive oil, tastey espressos, and crispy breadsticks at dinner were all welcomed. The food was priced very fair and there was a good variety to mix it up over a couple of days. All in all it was a perfect place for us to unwind.

View from our room

Moonset in the morning.

Zanzibar: Matemwe Beach

Sunrise

We had some days off for Easter and decided to have a proper holiday of true relaxation. I'd heard that Matemwe Beach was one of the more chill and relaxed beaches and I was not disappointed. Visiting at the height of the off season meant there were very few people but also variable weather.

Matemwe's pristine white sand stretches out as far as one can see and although we walked the beach in both directions we did not spot the end of it on either side. We lucked out with the tide coming in at 4pm, an optimal time to swim. The water came right up to the property line of the hotel and the surf was powerful enough to be fun but enjoyable for even the novice swimmer. There were several groups of young Tanzanians that weren't comfortable with full submersion swimming but were happy to let the waves beat their bodies.

There were several local fisherman and local people going about their business and also a handful of touts offering snorkeling trips. They were persistent but not annoying and I'm sure if I wanted to go snorkeling I could have wrangled a good deal with it being low season and all.

There were a fair amount of properties but the beach was not what I would describe as crowded. There were two or three local food joints offering much of what the fancy hotels offered though their price discounts were not as dramatic as one might think. It's still great to have your options and not be stuck with your hotel's food.

All in all I absolutely loved Matemwe. A perfect serene and quiet beach for me to eat seafood, walk on the beach, swim in the ocean, and kick back and relax.

Fishing boat

The beach.