Tuesday, January 14, 2014

Hot springs at Boma Ngombe

I had heard about some hot springs between Moshi and Arusha and was keen to check them out. First we took a dala dala to Boma, which was 1000 TZS ($0.93) and about a 45 minute ride. We then negotiated with the vibajaji drivers to drive us another half hour to the maji moto, or hot springs. The scene of vibajaji drivers reminded me of an auction as about ten of them were ready to take us. They initially showed solidarity by demanding 30,000 TZS ($18.55), though one of the younger guys quickly budged when we demanded 20,000 TZS ($12.37). 
The vibajaji (locally known as banjaji) got stuck in the mud so we had to get out and push. Kili looks on in the background. 

The ride to the springs was through a very dry landscaped, dotted with small villages and settlements. The dirt road twisted and turned and I realized I would never remember the correct route on my own. At one point we came to a flooded area. Our driver thought he could make it and we ended up stuck in the mud. The vibajaji's are conveniently tiny, so we had no problem getting it out and through the mud. 

View of Kili from the springs. 
The springs appear like an oasis in the dry landscape. Large trees and lush green shrubs suddenly occupied the space between the barren land. We pulled in under a shade tree, completely alone. There were signs of a semi-permanent area with a few benches and a tarp covering some goods. We had chosen to come early in anticipation of other guests due to the popularity of the springs.

Parked under the shade of gigantic tree. 
The hot springs weren't exactly hot springs as I think of them. They weren't very hot, though they were warm, and they didn't have the smell of sulfur like previous hot springs I have visited. Still, the springs were beautiful and temperate. There was also an abundance of wildlife with striped mongooses grazing the ground and baboons and vervet monkeys in the trees. Our friend was excited with the monkeys and kept following them around taking pictures and watching them. He was curious why Ana and I didn't find them interesting and we basically said we were jaded after working for a primate conservation organization and besides, monkeys are a pain in the ass. I kind of felt like a jerk saying that but I was later vindicated when some of the vervet monkeys shit on him from the trees. They even managed to get some into his beer.

We probably hung out for an hour before three local guys came. They explained the fee was 10,000 TZS ($6.19) for entry. They said it went towards the upkeep of the area and to the nearby village fund. I give them some credit because there was a pit toilet nearby but other than that it was pretty bare. They did uncover their tarp revealing a small cooking operation and some drinks and we negotiated until we came to an understanding. 

After some time, out of nowhere, three cars pull up one after another. The first one has two Tanzanian's and two wazungu. They were blaring techno music and when the driver turned off the ignition one of the girls in a Scandavian accent said, "Don't turn off the music!" Luckily the other passenger disagreed. Immediately after a jeep pulled up with four wazangu. Then, after that, another jeep with wazungu and Tanzanian's alike pulled up. They did not appear to know each other and it seemed like they were all a part of a "tour", though independent of each other. I felt bad for them as they were probably expecting a secluded hot springs. However, as they say, the early bird gets the worm!
Ana gets ready to take a dip. 

There were fish that would nibble your toes if you kept still. 

The rope swing was awesome. 

2 comments:

  1. How did you get back to Moshi? The vibajaji waited on site?

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    1. Yes, he just waited for us there, no need to pay extra, it should be negotiated in the price. But if you buy the driver a soda, it will be nice. To clarify, this was back to Boma Ngombe and then you have to get a bus or daladala back to Moshi.

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