Lake Nyasa (Lake Malawi)

River pool entering into the lake

Lake Nyasa (also known as Lake Malawi) is Africa's third largest lake around 550km long and 75km wide. Bordered by Tanzania, Malawi and Mozambique, the Tanzanian side is rimmed to the east by the Livingstone Mountains whose jagged green slopes form a stunning backdrop as they drop dramatically into the lake. The small village of Matema served as our base as we explored the area. A perfect spot to relax, Matema has a nice beach with a variety of lodging options for everyone from the backpacker to those who want something a little classier.

After the nice hike in Mt. Rungwe we were pretty tired and although several touts advertised their services for a waterfall hike, we all agreed we'd be better off hanging out at the beach and maybe going to explore a nearby river for a bird walk. After a lazy morning we headed down the beach and  trekked until the mouth of a river. There we were surprised to see a hippo about 10m off the shore in the lake. It bobbed up and down while emitting its guttural vocalizations. We had been warned to be careful at the mouths of the river as hippos and crocodiles hid among the reeds. At this point we chatted up a local fisherman that just happened to be pulling up to the shore. He showed us his catch and was in dismay at only catching three small fish. We decided he might be the perfect guy to show us around and he agreed to show us around the area for the equivalent of $1. He led us around the river into a mosaic of agriculture, grazing, and swampland. It was cloudy that day so the temperature was agreeable and we enjoyed a relaxed walk. We even passed through our “guide's” house and he showed us some of the different plants that he grew. The area was extremely lush and the farmers appeared to be growing a diverse set of crops such as banana, pineapple, cocoa, banana, maize, and cassava. It was a cool experience and the fisherman (named Mpoki) was very candid explaining different features of the area. He was perplexed why we wanted to stop and look at all the birds but didn't seem to mind as we plodded along.

In the evening we relaxed at the beach and went for a swim with a delicious fish dinner rounding out the day. In the evening we went down to the beach and watched incredible lightening storms pass across the lake until they finally reached our side of the lake, which sent us scurrying back to our rooms.

Matema was a great spot to relax and although it's just a huge lake, the people and the rhythm mirror the feel of a coastal town. We're looking forward to our next visit and maybe then we'll have the energy for the waterfall hike.

Livingstone Mountains in the background

Selfies on the beach