Chole Island

Uh, pretty nice sunset!

I was excited to stay on a smaller island to the east of Mafia called Chole Island. There is a small locally owned place at the southern tip of the tiny island. My expectations were very low as the place looked pretty basic but given that we had already done a ton of activities we thought it might be a nice quiet place to kick back. 

Our arrival was dictated by the tides as we could only cross at high tide. The lodge is tucked within mangroves and the water level at high tide is some of the best that we've seen for swimming in the Indian Ocean (notorious for dramatic tide swings). We were quite pleased with the basic set up and even better, we were the only guests. There appeared to be only two other rooms for guests and all had a beautiful view of the west. 

The location is an absolute hidden gem. Sunsets were jaw-dropping (with bats over the water taboot), the water level near to high tide was suitable for swimming, and the area was extremely peaceful. True, the accommodation was very basic, but it was totally fine. There was no need for air conditioning and the solar power system could manage a fan at night. The breakfast and lunch were lacking but the fresh seafood dinner was among the best seafood I have ever had! 

We enjoyed a few days on Chole and we lucked out with the tides in the morning and evening. This meant we could do plenty of swimming and we ended up not going on any excursions which was relaxing given the relaxing environs. 

Low tide looking for critters

 

Seychelles fruit bat on Mafia Island

 

A total random and unexpected wildlife experience was staying on Chole Island, enjoying the sunset, when suddenly massive fruit bats began to fly towards us having come from across the bay. They ended up being Seychelles fruit bat or Seychelles flying fox (Pteropus seychellensis) and they were coming to the island to feed on the flowers of the Baobab trees. We were excited to follow them to a flowering tree and watch them crawl around the trees feasting on the nectar. 

It was funny because when we arrived at the hotel, the proprietor told us that there were nine different types of bats on the island. As the sunset we began to see some small bats and thought there were probably several species of the small ones. So we were shocked when we saw the gigantic ones coming over the ocean. I think we were also pretty lucky to have the trees flowering now giving the bats an ample food source.

Mafia Island: Snorkeling in Chole Bay

 

A look out into the waters, very inviting!

 

Snorkeling in Mafia Island is the best I have experienced in Tanzania. One of the more popular places is Chole Bay. Chole Bay is within Mafia Island Marine Park a short boat ride away from the mainland. There are a series of rock islands and reefs at the mouth of the bay that make for fantastic snorkeling. The reefs are healthy and there is a nice current that provides a kind of underwater moving walkway. 

We ended up snorkeling in two different spots and at the second spot we were lucky enough to see a sea turtle. It was swimming along the surface and taking in some air but was not thrilled at our presence. It went down to the bottom of the ocean and swam away but we got to view it as it glided away.

Whale sharks in Mafia Island

 

Looming below...

The first time I went to Mafia (Trip I) I had an amazing time swimming with the whale sharks. They had not been the primary motivation for the trip so I was pleasantly surprised by the experience. However, the weather during my previous trip was generally rainy and cloudy and my other half did not travel with me and as a result I was looking forward to another trip.

Overall the whale shark viewing experience in Mafia Island is very well run. We were out on the water by 730am and there were not very many boats. At the peak I think there were probably five total boats with each carrying around six people. I think there some level of communication and coordination between the lodges in an effort to consolidate all the guests into fewer boats. I was also surprised at how few people actually swam alongside the whale sharks. Our guides dropped us in perfect position but many people seemed to be either weak swimmers or unfamiliar with the snorkel gear. As a result they still would have gotten an intimate view when the whale sharks passed but I think swimming alongside them is ideal. I was not complaining as I in the end had the whale sharks nearly all to myself!

We were lucky to see a few individuals, including one very large one around. There were some views in rather murky water while other sightings were in shallower water with better visibility. Our guys did an awesome job of dropping us in the path of the whale sharks and we even had some nice views of them coming to the top of the water to feed. It's such a nice activity though we were really lucky to have such great sightings. 

 

Mafia Island

Not my picture but exactly what it looked like.

I had a friend visiting the states and he wanted to do something different than the traditional Zanzibar beach trip. I suggested Mafia Island, a relatively small island south of Zanzibar and Dar es Salaam. I know several people that have visited and expats especially gush that it is a laid back island paradise free of the crowds of Zanzibar. In addition, as luck would have it, the seasonal migration of whale sharks occurs during this time off the coast of the island.

Cursory research indicated there were basically two parts of the island to stay at, the first of which is Kilondoni. The largest town on the island (15,000 people), Kilondoni is the main port and town. There are a cluster of guesthouses ranging in price and quality that are adjacent to the town with a small stretch of undeveloped beach leading to mangroves. The second place for tourists to stay is a half hour to the east and is a much smaller settlement called Utende. Utende is located in a marine reserve though so visitors have to pay a $22.50/day conservation fee. I expected the area to be less settled but there are villages right up next to Utende shoreline and we saw fishing nets all along the bay and shore during our excursions. Utende has a few lodges on the beach but it is quite small with a constant ferry to the nearby Chole Island.

We initially decided to stay in Kilondoni with the impression that there'd be more stuff going on around the village (more dining options) and it was where the whale sharks were located. We chose Juani Beach Bungalows which was a pretty bad experience (poor value, location and facilities) though we were happy to stay close to the whale sharks the first day.

The whale sharks were pretty cool, certainly very accessible. They are very close to the shore so it didn't require a long boat ride and local fisherman gave the heads up that they had seen them. There were two other boats from other camps that were out but it wasn't over crowded. We initially saw only one whale shark but later saw a group of five. The boat gets as close as it can to the whale sharks and then scream for you to jump in. If you time it right and swim like an absolute maniac, one can stay next to the whale shark for maybe 30 seconds to one minute. It is really neat to see them so close and docile but they are surprisingly swift and leave you in the dust before you realize it.

We eventually moved to Meremeta Lodge in Utende and had a wonderful stay (NOTE: years later they cheated us on marine park fees saying they paid but they pocketed it, do not recommend!). We were the only ones staying there so it was quite comfortable and there are free bicycles available to bike 1km to the beach or in the surrounding villages. Unfortunately it rained for the three days that we were there but still had an amazing snorkeling trip one day, and a less than successful trip to a lagoon on a nearby island.

Overall I wasn't super enthralled with Mafia as some kind of untouched island paradise. I'm sure there are some more expensive very exclusive places to stay but I've visited some places in Zanzibar that I felt were similar and much easier logistically. The snorkeling and reefs were excellent and better than Zanzibar so perhaps divers are more attracted to Mafia. Perhaps if the weather was nicer I'd have a more positive experience since the beaches on the main island are really tiny and I think the day trips to the smaller islands are where it's at. Either way, I didn't have a bad time and certainly one of those holidays where I'm happy that I am content reading a nice book!