Kagera Region

Map showing the regions of Tanzania

Kagera Region piqued our interest due to it being very different than the parts of Tanzania that we have traveled. Located in the far northwest corner of Tanzania, the region itself is bordered by Rwanda, Uganda, Burndi, and Lake Victoria. Historically a strong kingdom dominated by the Haya ethnic group (still powerful in Tanzania today), since the mid 20th century the region has been the landing place for thousands of refugees from neighboring Burundi and Rwanda. The landscape more greatly resembles the highlands and forests of Uganda and the Congo with the Kagera River cutting through the region eventually draining into Lake Victoria. The southern part of the region is a transitional forest mosaic that allows one to really feel the change in the landscape when driving through. A massive escarpment along the majority of Lake Victoria provides stunning views.

The drive from the south provided a rare opportunity to pass through a game reserve. Unlike national parks, ownership and operation of game reserves is a murky and opaque business reserved for hunters and private companies. Vast tracks of Tanzania have been allocated as game reserves (many adjacent to national parks) and remain teasingly out of view for naturalists like ourselves. So the fact that the main road cut through Biharamulo Game Reserve was a real treat. We didn't see any wildlife but we did drive through a long stretch of undisturbed forest which was a unique blend of forest species.

We spent most of our time in the highland swamp area in the northeast part of the region. We arrived a week or so after the rains had ceased resulting in the landscape appearing lush and green. Vast swampland and lakes provided some good birdwatching and hiking though the muddy roads provided a challenge.

We also visited Minziro Forest Reserve, which was a real treat, and also spent some time in the capital of Bukoba. With around 70,000 people Bukoba is big enough to have a lively feel, though nothing close to as hectic and dirty as other large urban areas. It also has the advantage of being located on the lake shore, though we came at the unfortunate time of the year when the area was infested with lake flies. The flies were so thick at night that they appeared to be smoke from the distance and you couldn't walk without getting a mouthful. In the morning there were piles of flies that had died the night before that were seemingly replaced by even more flies the next day!

Although some of the tracks in the rural areas were as devoid of development as anywhere I've ever seen, there were areas (especially Bukoba) that either had vestiges of missionaries or colonial meddling, or had non-profit projects (and perhaps still missionary meddling as well). Overall we absolutely loved Kagera and wished we had more time to explore the western and southern parts...though always good to have a reason to go back!

Local transport

Lake Victoria 

Looking out over the wetlands 

Random village 

Lake Ikimba

Random town shot

Acacia scrub towards the west of the region

Swamp

Lake Victoria

The impressive swarms of lake flies

Minziro Forest Reserve

Ana checking out the canopy

As natural forest lovers, we were drawn to Minziro Forest Reserve in Kagera Region. Extremely unique to Tanzania, the forest is really a fragment of the eastern most limit of the west and central Africa rainforests and thus has unique flora and fauna that can't be found anywhere else in Tanzania. It shares a border with Malabigambo Forest Reserve in nearby Uganda border and is about 25,000 ha (62,000 acres) in size. It consists of 3/4 seasonal swamp forest and 1/4 seasonally flooded grassland with Acacia woodland.

I'd never heard of a flooded forest before I visited and we knew it was a risk to visit in such a short proximity from the end of the rainy season. Our fears were somewhat justified as nearly all the walking trails were impassable within 5-10 minutes of walking. Even the vast grasslands surrounding the forest were too soggy to attempt crossing. 

The parts of the forest we did see definitely reminded us of the forests of Uganda. Unfortunately most of the larger native trees have long been cut so the area surrounding the road feels a bit thinned out for a natural forest. We attempted to enter from several directions but everywhere we found it was flooded. The surrounding area does have some nice points for views over the lowland forest and we enjoyed the trip nevertheless. However, it's advised that if you visit, wait till at least July for things to dry up!

View of the forest from the north looking south

Along the main road

Singida city

Ana taking in the view

During our trip a kind of mid-way point was Singida. A seemingly average small city in the middle of Tanzania, I came away loving the unique feel of the city and the centerpiece of Lake Singidani. 

Singida was much bigger than I had expected which makes sense since it's located quite central in Tanzania and a bit far from the other nearby large cities. It has a bit of a one-lane town feel but still has a busy and dense periphery around the main road. It was a little confusing at first to find the road down to the lake but we eventually found its and parked the car to go for a walk. 

The lake wasn't especially beautiful but was very open and lacked shops and structures on the shore. There were some rocky outcrops in the middle of the lake and at that time of the day the sun was on our backs and the light made the lake and reeds look very nice. Since it was Sunday it appeared that many people had the idea to come down to the lake for a walk and soon the area was bustling and alive with people walking along the lake, relaxing under a tree, and even some kids doing some acrobatics. I wondered if the lake was so lively everyday or if it was especially happening because it was Sunday.

It was really cool to see if so many people out and enjoying the landscape and surroundings. I felt like the lake was the closest thing I've seen to a public park in Tanzania, at least one that people were actively using. There was a great mix of young people older people and even some fishermen going into the lake towards the end of the evening. We took a long stroll up and down the lake eventually reaching a swamp. We enjoyed the lake as the sun went down and eventually made our way back to our hotel.

Clear waters of the alkaline Lake Singidani

Enjoying lakeside. 

There was a small peninsula popular with the locals

Car modifications: The Seats

Well, the roof rack at least looks nice. 

We recently decided to make some upgrades to our car, mainly attaching a roof rack and refurbishing the seats Our car is a three door (two side and one back) and is known as a "short wheel base" Landcruiser. We love it because it's not a behemoth truck yet it still has the power to get us through the roughest of roads. However, it is 25 years old so it's due for a few replacements. About a year ago the springs for the drivers seat blew out. Our company driver decided to fix the seat in the most local way possible, which resulted in a very thick piece of foam being set, which elevated me way up in the seat. It was quite comical how high I perched and even a traffic officer once asked why I appeared to be so high when the other seat was low. The foam finally did settle and driving was a bit more comfortable, but in the past few months the condition of both seats has deteriorated greatly.

The rear seat is also extremely cramped and I always feel bad when we have two passengers back there for more than 15 minutes. There is very little leg room and in addition, I also felt the seat prevented the car from fully utilizing the cargo space in back. Basically, I felt like it was a crappy compromise for both the passengers and the cargo and I thought I had the perfect solution.

One of the great things about the craftiness and economy of labor here is that repairs and modifications like car interiors can be relatively cheap and the level of customization is unlimited. Thus I gained inspiration from several old Landcruisers that I saw that had removed the rear seats and put folding seats facing sideways. It's not entirely uncommon, so I wasn't stretching the bounds of imagination. Or so I thought.

I decided to do the repairs while we were on holiday for two weeks. I left the car with a friend that owns a safari company, which means he is familiar with Landcruisers, and he has also previously helped me do work on the car before. I explained to him that I wanted the rear seats taken out and replaced with fold up seats facing each other, as well as replacing the foam and covering for the front seats. He asked what type of design I wanted for the seats and I said I really didn't care and trusted him that it would look presentable. I left the car with him and went on holiday.

When I was on holiday my friend sent me pictures of the car. I was shocked. Not only were the seats a tacky bronze and leopard print design, but the back seats were completely too high and without any space for the legs of passengers. I responded saying it doesn't seem like there was much space (and that they were the wrong orientation) and he countered with the fact that it only appears that way because the front seats are pushed back.

When I arrived I realized that it was even worse in person than in the pictures. To be honest, I don't even really mind the seat covering, in fact, it's so gaudy that it's humorous (and makes for a nice story) but the rear seats had to go. I was surprised my friend didn't understand my usual request and further, I can't believe he couldn't see that it obviously didn't fit. I also couldn't believe that the guy working on those seats wouldn't at some point say, "I don't think anyone could comfortably sit here?!".

I ended up showing my friend some pictures of the seats I wanted and we eventually found something that worked. In the end I met the guy who did the original rear seat job and he was non-chalantly like "Oh, the other seats in the back didn't fit". And I was like, "Was it you who did them?", to which replies, "Yeah, it was me". I was so shocked I didn't even respond.

In the end the upgrades were made and the car is out on the road. Tanzanians seem to really love the seat coverings (I'm looking for some to throw over them) and they are comfortable. I got the fold up seats I wanted and I learned a valuable lesson: if I say I truly don't care about something, I might end up with bronze leopard print.

Taking a closer look you can see the rear seats don't really fit...

Upon even closer look, there is absolutely no space. And those seat covers are...well....

He doesn't fit. 

Yeah, that's not gonna work. 

This is more like it. We had to look pretty hard to find just that beat up metal frame and then re-cover it. 

Finally, exactly what I wanted. 

TPC Birding II

A rare sunny day at the pools

With the rainy season in full force, outdoor excursions can be challenging. Thus, our trips to nearby TPC grow in frequency (Birding, TPC I, TPC II, TPC III, Trip IV). If there is a small break in the weather we can always try to drive out and have a quick walk albeit in quite soggy conditions. 

Rain moves in but it can not break the focus of Ana. 

Soggy ground, gotta be careful or you'll be waist deep in mud.

Peponi: Tanga Trip IV

Reflect

We had a Monday off this week and we'll take any excuse to sneak off to Peponi, our choice of accommodation on the Tanga coast (Trip I, Trip II, Trip III). Although the rainy season threatens any activity with rain, we knew that we could still enjoy the coast without sunshine.

It's a good thing we had such a positive attitude because we were greeted with overcast skies when we arrived late Saturday morning. We set up camp and went on a walk, getting back just in time for rain and wind to begin. What to do? Grab our books, find a dry spot, and enjoy the rain!

For those unaccustomed to what a rainy season is like, we basically went to the beach in winter. While it wasn't cold, it was chilly and the weather uninviting and the character and vibe of the coast completely changes. The weather throughout the weekend was quite dreary but it also offered spectacular light and colors on the coast. Gone were the usual bright reflecting colors and instead we had a very soft blue and grey backdrop. It was cool to watch the storms over the ocean from a far while the shore was completely still. Despite the frequent showers, we did find time for frequent walks and did plenty of reading. I even managed to start and finish a book, a true indication of leisure time.

That rain did eventually hit us.  

Ocean front campsite, and covered taboot

Storm is a brewing!

Amazing soft light and still water gave a very subdued feeling. 

Shambala Swamp: Trip II

Ana checking out the swamp

We recently discovered Shambala Swamp (Trip I) and realized it was the perfect place for a bush camping excursion. So this weekend we packed up our gear and headed out early Saturday morning to the swamp.

We arrived at the northern end of the swamp at around 10:30am. We enjoyed some coffee and a snack of chapati while doing some bird-watching. We noted that the sun was already quite hot but the acacia woodland always provided a nearby tree for some shade. We spent the day slowly making our way down the eastern side of the lake, frequently stopping to walk the shoreline or acacia woodland. The bird life was prolific and there were signs the wetland was recovering since a month previous. The recent drought had apparently caused the wetland to dry up for the first time in decades. Now we could see a variety of waterbirds comfortably fishing or wading along the shore.

The area is sparsely inhabited, mainly with a few scattered villages or bomas (semi-permanent Masaai settlements) just upland from the swamp, though there were two really dodgy looking temporary fishing villages set up. Otherwise the Masaai only grazed with their cows during the day, so the night looked to be quiet.

We reached our goal by making it to the southern end fo the swamp. We were rewarded by some really great birdlife and open areas at the southern edge. The reeds gave way to open water and the mountains in the background provided a stunning backdrop. We off-roaded a bit until we found a comfortable campsite that wouldn't be visible from the main road. We set up our tent, lit a fire next to the swamp, and enjoyed the night.

At dusk thousands of Barn-swallows came to drink and we were treated to a beautiful sunset as the sun dropped below the horizon on the opposite side of the lake. A tiny sliver of the moon rose, along with stars so clear that the Milkyway was visible.  For how thin the moon was, it illuminated the area quite well and we didn't even need a headtorch most of the time. It was an absolutely beautiful place and as night set in there was a cacophony of sound from the insects and reptiles of the swamp.

The sunrise the next morning was equally beautiful and watching the light change over the completely still swamp water was as peaceful as it gets. We had breakfast and then took a small walk up the swamp. The rest of the day was spent basically retracing our steps of the previous day, checking at some points we didn't stop at on the way down, and enjoying the cool morning before the sun got too strong. We ended up leaving the north end the swamp at 11am and still made it back to Moshi in time for lunch.

I'm very thankful for my interest in birds because without the bird watching aspect, I wonder if it would be worth it for most people from Moshi and Arusha to visit the swamp. There truly isn't much to do aside from admire the local widllife and the views, but if you enjoy spending the day checking out those things, Shambala swamp is the place to go!

Much of the "road" was really either dry riverbeds or cow paths.  

The sun was pretty hot! 

Mountains behind us

Aerial view, aka, I climbed on top the car 

Great campsite!

Sunset over the swamp. 

Dawn over the very still swamp. 

First rays of the sun...