Ngosi Crater Lake

Great viewpoint. I'm sure if it's sunny the water is an even more stunning mix of blues and greens

Ngosi Crater Lake (also spelled Ngozi) is a place we've always talked about going to but never got around to it. The picturesque and easily accessible lake is a top attraction for the south. It's only about an hour from Mbeya town and theoretically can be reached from two different access points. There seems to have been a recent investment in the attraction and we saw a new sign post just south of Uyole. Unfortunately the pouring rain and previous days rains made the road impassible. It was a beautiful drive along a narrow ridge surrounded by verdant farms. I imagine the climb made its way to the northern rim and likely a great viewpoint.

When we turned around we went to the more well known turn off to the lake past the village of Isongole, about an hour from Mbeya. We were once again met with some muddy roads and managed to get stuck in a mud soup but wriggled our way out. We were not to be deterred and continued on though the lack of tire tracks indicated it was not the right season to make the trek.

In the end we made it to the trailhead in a lush piece of forest. We were pleasantly surprised at how dense the forest was so close to the road and farms. There was an obvious trail that led up to the rim of the crater with a beautiful viewpoint. The hike only took about an hour or so at a leisurely pace.  There was an extremely steep path that led down to the lake but after a long weekend of hiking I was not very enthusiastic about the climb. We enjoyed the views and then took our time on the trail back stopping to examine all the fungi and birds inhabiting the forest. We were pleased to see some Colobus monkeys as well. I'm hoping in the future they will link the two view points by a crater rim trail, it'd be quite the hike!

Reaching the trailhead we had evidence of being stuck in the mud on our car.

Hiking in the forest

Amazing fungi. I did not consume them.

Lake Rukwa

Stroll on the beach

I love an “off the beaten path” excursion and Lake Rukwa offered just that. For a lake its size it is pretty low profile and certainly not a tourist draw. Known for its immense crocodile population, Lake Rukwa is an endorheic lake, meaning it retains its water and has no outflow to rivers or the ocean. This means historically it has fluctuated greatly in size. Some years it is less than 50km long, currently it is around 150km long meaning it's around the 25th largest lake in the world!

It’s easier to access via the west side of the lake but since we were in the area of the south we decided to try to reach the shores of the south. There wasn’t much information we had on it other than that it did seem possible to reach the lake from the south. We were slightly discouraged by the recent heavy rains as most of the roads indicated we’d go through low lying land adjacent to the lake, most of which would probably be flooded. Our fears were realized when the first two options for reaching the lake were not passable (Totoe and Mwambani). It was getting pretty late in the day but decided to press on to the Mbagala. We passed the unusually large and developed town of Mkwajuni and then through Saza. We passed a huge mine and along the road there seemed to be several "artisanal" mines.

The road was extremely muddy but we finally found a road down to Mbagala. It seemed we were up on an escarpment so the road went straight down a hillside to the lake shore. It was slippery but we made it and had time to hike the shores. Lake Rukwa is very famous for the crocodiles (man eaters!) so we were very cautious. We asked one local fisherman if there were crocs and he said no but then we asked a small child and he said there were many but, "If you see them you can just run". Uh, yeah, we'll just be very cautious and stay to open areas.

The walk along the shore was beautiful and I imagine another day it would be great to charter a boat and go along the coast. There was evidence of heavy fishing (fisherman have a local buoy design with plastic bottles) but the lake shores seemed sparsely populated. Very unfortunate that I wasn't brave enough to swim, but I am not sure I could "outrun" a croc...

Overlooking the east.

View to the west

Nice forested area to the north

Flamingo Lake

Walking to the lake

One our way to Lake Rukwa we passed by a seasonal lake that at this time of year is full of water. Located a few kilometers off the main road, Flamingo Lake is easy accessible and great for birdwatching. I imagine it is picturesque if there aren’t clouds obscuring the Mbeya mountain range as well.

We found a questionable path down to the lake and parked the car near the shore. There were dozens of tiny frogs that I assume have recently hatched with the rains. True to its name, the lake had a nice group of Lesser Flamingos as well as pelicans, plovers, gulls and a lone Spoonbill. There were some herds of cattle grazing around the lake and some curious kids came to greet us and follow close behind. There was a neat little sandbank that cut into the lake giving us excellent views of some of the birds. It was a great break from the drive and the overcast day provided some cloud cover for a nice stroll, an of course I am always happy to see a group of Lesser Flamingos.

Sandbank.

Neat little frogs everywhere

Mt. Mbeya hike

Overlooking the valley

While in Mbeya we really wanted to do some trekking and Mt. Mbeya (2,565m/8,415 ft) was the natural option. Mbeya is located in rolling hills with the Mbeya mountain range to the north. The range is formed by the  joining of the eastern Gregory Rift and western Albertine Rift valleys

We are always averse to taking a guide if only for the reason that we love taking our time and moving at our own pace. It’s not that we’re unfriendly people but a critical aspect we love about hiking is the solitude. Many guides in less touristy areas sometimes overdo the guiding and fail to read that we want to just chill on our walk. It doesn’t help that the typical tourist to Tanzania actually enjoys more interaction with a local guide so I’m sure they perceive interactions with tourists along the trail as a net positive.

However, it became increasingly clear that the trail up Mt. Mbeya is not well marked and it would be wise if someone would show us the way. Through some normal chit-chat with locals I recruited an eager older gentleman who said he could show us the way. He was just a normal local farmer and we generally enjoyed his company up the mountain.

We started out from a coffee farm located as close as one can drive to the south. There is another access point to bypass the majority of the hike from a small village in the north but we decided that we had the time to hike and wanted to take advantage of it. The first part of the hike wound through farmland rather steeply. The majority of the forest had long been cleared but we passed through a few bird rich fragments of forest. The path was very steep and we passed maybe five different groups of people that were either living deep up the mountain or coming from the village on the other side. At one point we passed a caravan of people with donkeys loaded with mangoes and they explained they were a type of mango that wasn’t available on the other side.

The path continued steeply until we reached a sort of plateu where we could see the alternative starting point village on the other side. Some cows grazed on the steep grassy hillside and we began to climb. We eventually started to snake around the side of the mountain on a very narrow path though far less disturbed than the previous trail.

As we neared the peak the views were lovely. The clouds came below us and around us. There had been frequent rains the previous days so the trail was very slippery. As we reached the final ascent the trail became unclear and we were basically scrambling up the slippery hillside using small clumps of grass as footing. We made it to a nice vista and decided it was probably not worth it to continue and headed back down.

The trail was very steep and although it lacked the beauty of having pristine forests, the views overlooking the valley were spectacular. Even if one starts at the alternative starting point the trail is still very steep although it would allow you to really take your time. We’ll hopefully come back again and perhaps summit the top though the trade off between sore knees and good view is one to consider!

Amazing endemic chameleon that we were lucky enough to spot.

Clouds coming through

The beginning of the hike, Mt. Mbeya peak.

View to the north, above the clouds.

Mbeya: Utengule Coffee Lodge

Not my picture but could have taken one just like it!

Tanzania has a few farms that have converted or added rural retreat hotels (Simba Farm, Kisolanza Farm). We typically enjoy these places for their quiet, delicious food, and nice birdwatching. Utengule Coffee Lodge was no different though it was much larger than the other farmhouses that we’ve visited.

Set up in the mountains at the base of Mt. Mbeya, the lodge is located about 20 minutes outside of Mbeya proper. It’s a very large property with a main lodge with nearby traditional rooms and then a separate area with standalone “bungalows” (houses) that can either be fully furnished and equipped or have bare bones facilities aimed towards campers and overlanders. Due to lack of availability of the bungalows one night, we stayed one night in a proper room and then two nights in the bungalows. The main property is beautifully manicured with fantastic views into the valley. There is a swimming pool that is frequented by day visitors along with a tennis court, TV viewing banda, and a main lodge with a restaurant. The rooms are quite nice though they are all housed in a large building which gives the feel of a traditional hotel. We much preferred the bungalows which suit our style of isolation much more. The bungalows are really standalone houses with several rooms and a full kitchen. They are spread out in a nicely landscaped area which is conducive to bird watching.

The farm itself offers coffee tours (we heard they’re great) and delicious food. The menu has a mix of traditional food as well as western food. Everything was very fresh and good value. There are some hiking trails behind the main area through some nice woodland if one cares to have an afternoon stroll.

We loved the setting of the lodge and bungalows are a perfect type of accommodation for us. We look forward to coming back and using it as a base for Mbeya activities or just chilling out for a long weekend.

Ruaha National Park: Ikuka Safari Camp

Sunrise over the park. Uh, YES

One of my absolute favorite lodges in the park, Ikuka Safari Camp has undoubtedly the best views of any of the lodges in the park. Located on a hillside on the way up the escarpment in the north of the tourist circuit the lodge offers stunning views, excellent service, and tasteful design. It offers a kind of luxury that isn't over the top and fits with the natural environment. All the rooms are beautifully designed and open yet also have screens that can be rolled down at night for insects. The communal area has a pool (amazing in the dry season!) and sufficient space for people to hang out. They recently constructed a family room and I believe they have a honeymooner suite with a private plunge pool.

If someone wants a bush camp experience, I recommend Kigelia Camp but if someone wants a more luxurious experience I recommend Ikuka!

Thinking about taking a dip. We actually forgot our swimming suits.

View from the bed.

Each room has a private seating area. Chairs can also be taken out on the deck.

Literally the view from the toilet located at the communal lounge. Love this view.

Mafia Island

Not my picture but exactly what it looked like.

I had a friend visiting the states and he wanted to do something different than the traditional Zanzibar beach trip. I suggested Mafia Island, a relatively small island south of Zanzibar and Dar es Salaam. I know several people that have visited and expats especially gush that it is a laid back island paradise free of the crowds of Zanzibar. In addition, as luck would have it, the seasonal migration of whale sharks occurs during this time off the coast of the island.

Cursory research indicated there were basically two parts of the island to stay at, the first of which is Kilondoni. The largest town on the island (15,000 people), Kilondoni is the main port and town. There are a cluster of guesthouses ranging in price and quality that are adjacent to the town with a small stretch of undeveloped beach leading to mangroves. The second place for tourists to stay is a half hour to the east and is a much smaller settlement called Utende. Utende is located in a marine reserve though so visitors have to pay a $22.50/day conservation fee. I expected the area to be less settled but there are villages right up next to Utende shoreline and we saw fishing nets all along the bay and shore during our excursions. Utende has a few lodges on the beach but it is quite small with a constant ferry to the nearby Chole Island.

We initially decided to stay in Kilondoni with the impression that there'd be more stuff going on around the village (more dining options) and it was where the whale sharks were located. We chose Juani Beach Bungalows which was a pretty bad experience (poor value, location and facilities) though we were happy to stay close to the whale sharks the first day.

The whale sharks were pretty cool, certainly very accessible. They are very close to the shore so it didn't require a long boat ride and local fisherman gave the heads up that they had seen them. There were two other boats from other camps that were out but it wasn't over crowded. We initially saw only one whale shark but later saw a group of five. The boat gets as close as it can to the whale sharks and then scream for you to jump in. If you time it right and swim like an absolute maniac, one can stay next to the whale shark for maybe 30 seconds to one minute. It is really neat to see them so close and docile but they are surprisingly swift and leave you in the dust before you realize it.

We eventually moved to Meremeta Lodge in Utende and had a wonderful stay (NOTE: years later they cheated us on marine park fees saying they paid but they pocketed it, do not recommend!). We were the only ones staying there so it was quite comfortable and there are free bicycles available to bike 1km to the beach or in the surrounding villages. Unfortunately it rained for the three days that we were there but still had an amazing snorkeling trip one day, and a less than successful trip to a lagoon on a nearby island.

Overall I wasn't super enthralled with Mafia as some kind of untouched island paradise. I'm sure there are some more expensive very exclusive places to stay but I've visited some places in Zanzibar that I felt were similar and much easier logistically. The snorkeling and reefs were excellent and better than Zanzibar so perhaps divers are more attracted to Mafia. Perhaps if the weather was nicer I'd have a more positive experience since the beaches on the main island are really tiny and I think the day trips to the smaller islands are where it's at. Either way, I didn't have a bad time and certainly one of those holidays where I'm happy that I am content reading a nice book!

Giraffe carcass

There is a road that goes to the national park and it's really bushy on each side of the road, especially now after the first rains. It is unfortunately not super unusual for someone to hit and kill an animal while driving. This past week we noticed some activity of one of our collared lions indicative of it feeding on a carcass and went to check it out.When we came to the location we noticed a dead giraffe showing no wounds, so likely an auto accident. Even before we could set up our VHF antennae to locate the lion BOOM, we saw it peeking out of the bushes next to the car.

We backed away from the carcass and waited and after about a half hour the lion came out with another male and began feasting.

While we were happy, we were even more excited to return at night when the lions would be real active. Around 9pm we headed out to the road and set up about 20 ft back from the carcass. It was one day since the full moon and it illuminated the area well. It gave a feeling of being able to almost see but not quite able to make out the details. Certainly gave a vulnerable feeling after the two lions began to roar on both sides of our car. I then saw a lion come on the road about 50 ft behind us. My window was down as I slowly watched the lion walk past me, not five feet from the car. Even though the level of actual danger to myself was minimal, when a lion walks next to you in the moonlight it is incredibly tense. After he walked by his friend came out from the other side and they began to feast on the giraffe. We could hear them pulling the giraffe's neck and heard it thumping on the ground as they lifted it up in the air and released it as they tore off pieces of flesh. Hyenas gathered within 50 ft, not yet willing to risk annoying the lions who were obviously protective of their meal.

The next morning we passed again and the vultures had come. Dozens of White-backed along with a few Ruppels and Hooded vultures took turns pecking away at the carcass.

I only passed one more time the following day on my way into the park and saw the giraffe head 10 ft from the body and the rest decaying fast. According to our collaring data the lions had finally moved on which means the hyenas and jackals would decimate the carcass that night.

Mwanza City

View of downtown Mwanza

I had been to Mwanza one time over two years ago (Trip I) and wasn't enamored with the city. Mwanza is Tanzania's second largest city at around 1,000,000 people and is notable for the industry and trade around Lake Victoria, nearby mining, and being the home region of the current president. Previously I had come as a tourist but this trip was for work. The workshop was scheduled over the Tanzanian independence day holiday and I didn't know that the president was having the celebration in Mwanza. As a result the city was busy as ever and I actually had difficulties finding a hotel when I arrived.

The town is large and sprawled and although it was busy it didn't feel overwhelming like Dar es Salaam can sometimes feel. I was alarmed at the huge population of street kids which seemed to be more than any other city in Tanzania. Having originally come to Tanzania to do monitoring and evaluation for street kids in Moshi the issue certainly still resonates with me. 

I found the city to be overall bland and even the attractions are a bit contrived. The nearby national park Saanane, which is nothing more than a few tiny islands 10 minutes from Mwanza city that was initially a zoo. The fish market is a cool place to visit if you are a tourist though the most interesting thing in my opinion is a visit to "Jiwe Kuu" a photogenic high point in the northern end of town that has some pretty rocks and a view.

Otherwise Mwanza was a decent place to come for a workshop, albeit very far away. Luckily I was already in Arusha and could catch a flight, otherwise it was a 14 hour bus ride from Arusha!