Laundry in the dry season

 

It might sound ridiculous but doing laundry in the dry season is a real treat. The actual washing of the clothes is not necessarily enjoyable but the speed at which the clothes dry is phenomenal. I also like that if I do my laundry in the evening, maybe around 5pm, with a combination of the wind and dry environment, my clothes are often dry by 9pm and do not need to be beaten by the UV of the sun. I never thought much about the UV impact on clothes until I moved to the tropics but clothes get enough wear and tear in normal use so subjecting them to the blasting sun all day adds to the harshness.

Stoplights in Iringa town

 

Main crosswalk

 

The humble stoplight, a benchmark of development indicating the need to control traffic for both vehicles and pedestrians. For the longest time I enjoyed describing Iringa as a rural town, sizeable and significant for the area, but more of a big village than a small city. I always liked to highlight the fact that we did not even have a stoplight, unlike town like Morogoro, Mbeya, and Arusha. Well, that has changed with the recent installation of two stoplights in town.

The installations have not gone without issue. When I first passed through I noticed that the entire system was out of sync with both the traffic (in both directions) and the pedestrians, so instead of meeting an automated system that everyone trusts, I met the typical frantic eye contact between drivers and pedestrians to help us navigate right of way. I am sure they will get the system corrected in due time and hopefully it will be helpful for pedestrians. I am not sure Iringa has the volume of vehicle traffic to necessitate a stoplight but perhaps it's some urban planning foresight?

An ode to Maji (the dog)

 

Elegant pose, died on July 27, 2024

I have written about the challenges of keeping dogs in this environment and I have written a goodbye to Poppy and now I am sadly writing a goodbye to Maji. We had a flurry of issues with both our dogs and I was unfortunately in Kenya at the time of his death. I had a report that in the night time he was wandering around camp looking for water and the next day was walking unsteadily. We transported him to town and within a few hours he was dead upon arrival. 

Maji was definitely not the best behaved dog and had he not been taken in by camp he was surely the runt of the litter and would not have survived long. His food drive was extremely high and he would often misbehave or put himself at risk for the sake of food.

However, Maji had a fun personality and was unequivocally goofy. One of our favorites was Maji laying next to the couch and looking up at us with textbook puppy eyes looking to be pet. He also had this fruity little trot he would engage when it was near to meal time and we were talking to the kitchen. His legs were a little too long for his body so he had a unique gait, especially when galloping like a horse. His long legs led to him often contorting himself in uncomfortable looking positions while laying down. 

This can't be comfortable...

I also loved that Maji liked to roughhouse a bit. This contrasts with his extremely jump nature which improved as he got older. When he was younger if he was startled he would jump in the air like a literal cartoon. Perhaps some of this is coming from when he was neutered at a young age and he recoiled into a ball when the vet approached him. Or when he fell off the stairs at the ghorofa after spending days working up the courage to climb them. 

Maji also learned a lot from the Anatlion Shephard, Hodari. I didn't realize the extent at which dogs did this but Maji learned how to wag her head and emit a low growl when he was happy to see you. Maji had an unrequited love of Hodari, something that was really fun to see when Maji was a puppy and Hodari was an old dog. The spirit of the dogs will live on!

For anyone that has lost a dog, I encourage you to read this poem from Rudyard Kipling, it's a little outdated but the sentiment remains.

https://poets.org/poem/power-dog

Happy to see me!

Ah the good times when we'd bring a hueso de jamon for them after our annual leave

With his brother

At a young age

With Hodari

Ruaha National Park in November

Leopard

Ruaha National Park can truly be hit or miss. The low densities of wildlife, expansive landscape, and relatively limited road access combine for long days of seeing relatively little or amazingly intimate wildlife sightings. The dry season compounds this with the chances of wildlife congregating around limited water sources being higher but the lack of water means there is little else happening in the landscape like flowering shrubs and trees. I had a great weekend trip but it was truly the tale of two days, summing up the Ruaha experience perfectly. 

The first day I planned to visit an area of the park that I rarely visit. It's far away from water sources, full of tsetse flies, and has very little wildlife. But I love the feeling of exploration and one of Ruaha's defining features is the massive open space. I traveled far and had some great sightings of buffalo and elephant though all the wildlife was very skittish. I did not find a river crossing that I was attempting and since I was alone I did not want to push my luck. 

The next day I had a more relaxed day and lo and behold, the wildlife came to me. I had an intimate sighting of a leopard and then I found a buffalo kill with some lions and vultures. I spent a few hours with the lions and enjoyed the solitude of the sighting with no one else around. The lions were satiated and very tame so I could get very close to them. I enjoyed watching vultures slowly come to the carcass and the lions half-heartedly chasing them away every so often. 

I love the aesthetic of Baobab trees

Always pleased to see elephants

So full he can't be bothered by the camera in his face

Almost finished off that buffalo

Restaurant Review Iringa: Mama Iringa

 

Dining area

Mama Iringa is an Iringa establishment, a cozy location just outside of town with delicious Italian food and a few rooms that serve as a guesthouse as well. Iringa is blessed with many large and diverse farms that produce a variety of high quality vegetables, meats, cheeses and other food items. The region punches far above it's weight when it comes to quality of food and Mama Iringa takes full advantage of the availability. The restaurant has been around for about 15 years and is run by an Italian woman. The restaurant is small but capable of hosting large groups and an indoor courtyard is an excellent place to have an afternoon coffee. 

While the ambiance and food are great, the most notable food item is the pizza, which I find to be world class. High quality ingredients with a brick oven results in several tasty combinations. I am partial to the Diavola with its spicy sausage but you really can't go wrong.

Kisolanza Farmhouse in September

 

Miombo trees putting out their leaves by the dam

 

A home away from home, even a night at Kisolanza Farmhouse can be rejuvenating (previous trips). I always look forward to the varied farm fresh menu, as well as the network of walking trails to enjoy in the cool climate. This time of year it is dry and cool with some miombo trees just starting to put their leaves out. We saw our first Barn Swallows of the year and there were plenty of birds around. When the sun was shining the weather was comfortable enough to only wear a t-shirt while strolling. 

There were two or three groups of overlanders and we were happy to see them using patronizing the location. Although southern highlands residents enjoy frequenting Kisolanza it is truly built for overlanders. Even though they are usually found in large groups they tend to be a respectful and interesting bunch of folks. There has been a change from these groups being dominated by under 30s to being more frequently composed of over 50s. They have massive converted bus-like vehicles that plod through a few African countries mixing camping with other types of accommodation. Average trips are four weeks long and I assume they have different themes like culture, wildlife, etc.

A weekend trip was just what we needed. It wasn't too cold at night but I couldn't help myself and still enjoyed a fire after a delicious roast beef dinner. 

I love the style of the cabins, a perfect mix between rustic and natural while also having a high standard

Breakfast is a favorite for sure, the don't usually wax poetic about yogurt, but in this case it is a real highlight along with the homemade strawberry jam

Dry season flowers at camp

 

Dry season flowers in the beginning of September

On first glance the dry season climate can appear lifeless with no rainfall for three consecutive months. But at certain times of the dry season there are signs of life with several species of trees and shrubs alike putting out flowers. My excitement for the flowering shrubs has grown due to my appreciation for the rarity of the event. The majority of the year many of the shrubs have a rather tough appearance, I would certainly not describe them as aesthetically pleasing. And shrubs take present in high densities so it's easy to write them off as an uninteresting part of the rugged landscape. 

Wildlife will quickly locate the flowers, whether they are birds or even elephants, all searching for energy to power through the long harsh dry season.

A lone cassia flowering

Ruaha National Park in September

Baobab tree, absolutely ICONIC

September is a great month for visiting Ruaha National Park. The crowds are low and the area is dry providing clearer views of wildlife. The Ruaha River is still flowing and there are some pools of water on the Mwagusi River. The nights are cold but it heats up quickly with typical cloudless sunny days.

I have been told by those in the tourism industry that it is the shoulder season. This means the already quiet Ruaha National Park is nearly empty and virtually any sightings you will have to yourself.

Having breakfast by the Mwagusi River

Nyerere National Park in August

Lake Manze sunset

 

I have written about Nyerere National Park once before (Trip I) but wanted to write a little more about the park due to the growing popularity. This time of year is a fantastic time to visit the park. The dry conditions result in the majority of the wildlife being found around the lakes and the Rufiji River. Many of the roads found on the seasonal floodplains are now passable albeit bumpy and slow. 

There has been an influx of day trip safaris from Zanzibar. Packages are available from $400-500 with a flight and game drive included. It's a smart package especially for those that came to Zanzibar for a beach holiday and have perhaps become a bit bored with the offerings of the island. Whatever the motivations, it works, and from 8 to 9am you can expect a steady stream of small planes dispensing Zanzibar day trippers. This can result in some overcrowding as well as a clash in "vibe". The day trippers come with a kind of care free exotic day trip energy while there are still tourists who sought the solitude of the bush. 

The bird watching is fantastic and I personally feel the best feature of the park is actually the game drives via river cruises. Exploring the channels and viewing wildlife from a boat provides an entirely different perspective from the safari vehicle. It is also more comfortable and for bird watchers, there is a lot more action from the water. Wild dogs are relatively common as they do den in the most visited area north of the lakes but seeing them simply depends on luck as they range far and wide.

Nyerere NP is still a great park to visit but planning your trip and timings is important. Wildlife densities are low and if you overlap with the Zanzibar blast, you might have a high tourist/low wildlife density trip, a less than ideal outcome!

Surrounding the lakes are grasslands and plains

Rufiji River Camp

 

There are a lot of things that I love about our Rufiji River camp. The location on the edge of the riverine forest provides habitat for all sorts of wildlife, both resident and passing through. It is about 400m from the river, safe enough to avoid the season flooding but close enough to enjoy the views or stroll down to the water. 

In August the climate is not as humid as the rest of the year and some cloudy days accompany very random and extremely light showers. The camp has resident Brown Greater Galagos that cry throughout the night. Elephants come through camp regularly, passing through to get to the river to drink. I was excited to see a Southern Giant Pouched Rat as well as a pair of dikdiks one evening. There was a troop of Banded Mongooses that were caught seeking shade in our banda one afternoon.

I was also happy to see Angolan black-and-white colobus monkeys. The baboons and Blue Monkeys were also around though not as aggressive as in times past. I think my previous visits to the camp have been dominated by building logistics and I haven't had time to properly reflect on and enjoy the environment. But now that I have time to enjoy it, I absolutely love the camp. The evening walks down by the river to view the sunset are epic!

Usa River: Dolly Escape Farm & River Camp

Tented room

 

I had the opportunity to attend a workshop in Usa River that was hosted by Dolly Escape Farm & River Camp. One of our friends used to have a property in this estate which is a 4,000 gated estate about 20km from both the international airport and Arusha. The estate is a former plantation turned real estate venture that is more South African than Tanzanian; there is a polo grounds, golf course, and reintroduced animals such as eland, zebra and gazelles. 

I'll save my comments about the estate and write about the tourism facilities in a vacuum. I stayed at the river camp, which was a beautiful setting directly on the river with the sounds of the river providing a steady backdrop throughout the day and night. The tents were luxurious and tasteful and a special nod to the property for providing a tasty snack plate in my tent after my late arrival at night. 

There are several tents but each has enough space between for adequate privacy and there is a nice communal dining area where meals are served. The meals were delicious three course meals with freshly made bread and local ingredients prepared in creative ways to appeal to international palates.

I also spent some time at the villas which were private and luxurious. The rooms were tastefully done in an old farmhouse style with a small pool and open dining area. I actually preferred the setting and safari style luxury tent but that is purely a personal preference!

View of the river

 

Simba Farm in Kilimanjaro Region

Mt. Meru

 

One of the other things we were looking forward to while in the north was visiting Simba Farms. It used to be one of our favorite places to go on the weekend and although we have found a substitute (Kisolanza Farmhouse), there is some romanticism in the return to Simba Farm. And I really need to acknowledge them for all the improvements they've made since we last came. They've expanded their veranda area, included more activities, and are currently in the middle of expanding even more accommodation options. I was also happy to see the food is still as stellar as I remember it, high quality, healthy and farm fresh food for every meal.

Simba Farm is also super family friendly with tons of neat activities. I have to highly recommend their river walk which I was initially skeptical of. I was only skeptical because years ago it was a free walk but now there is a fee to pay the Tanzania Forestry Service. This allows the walk to be much longer and they have a really cool trail that takes you along a river, complete with a swimming hole for those who don't mind a freezing cold river stream! 

Simba Farm is another place on my underrated destinations in Tanzania and one that I think more people should visit, especially after a safari. Having two or three days to laze around and relax is the perfect compliment to safari.

Serengeti Grass Fires

The smoke gives the sky a pretty color at sunset.

 

The Serengeti has a massive grassland ecosystem and this time of the year the park authorities schedule burns. I am no grassland ecologist so I'm not sure what the method to the madness is but what I do know is that northern Serengeti was full of smoke from the afternoon into the evening. We managed to avoid it most days but one day we were engulfed in smoke and fire at our sundowner spot.

The smoke helped contribute to a really pretty sunset and around some of the burn areas we were treated to some birds that were snatching all the crickets and other insects desperate to escape. We were lucky to have some breeze at night which cleared it from our camp and the burns didn't start until mid-morning so we had time to enjoy the morning game drives.

Watching the sunset, engulfed in smoke

Ngorongoro Conservation Area Hike

View of the crater

As much as I love safari, one of the biggest drawback is the extended time spent in the car on bumpy roads. I always recommend people to try to include some walks in their safari to stretch their legs and to view the landscape at a different speed. Driving is great for covering huge distances but it's a "miss the trees for the forest" kind of situation. We were lucky to have a walk in the Ngorongoro Conservation Area that took us along the crater rim on the northeast side. 

The walk was stunning for the views across the Ngorongoro highlands on one side and the crater on the other. We saw some giraffes and we avoided a trail with elephants although we had very good visibility so the danger would not have been all that high. The highlands are at altitude so the walk was a little tougher than we expected which allowed for several breaks to check out the smaller flora and fauna. The crisp climate meant that we could hike mid-day without it being too hot. It was nice to enjoy our big breakfast without any rush since most of the safari days have us up at the crack of dawn. 

I highly encourage everyone to enjoy the national parks of Tanzania on foot, preferably with a good guide. You'll get to see all the beetles, grasses, animal dung, and all the little things that come together to create the larger landscape.

Ngorongoro Crater: Trip V

 

View from the rim

The Ngorongoro Crater is one of my favorite places in the world and I've been lucky to visit it a few times (previous trips). I always recommend tourists to include it in their itinerary and for those that can't afford a full safari, whether it be time or money, I urge them to strongly consider at least a Ngorongoro Crater day trip. It's a very expensive trip but even beyond the wildlife, the setting is truly unique and stunning. 

From the first views of the crater from the rim to the winding road leading to the descent road, the unique Ngorongoro Highlands offer a different landscape than the typical African savanna. Lush forested highlands surround the road and the cool weather is a welcome relief. The descent down to the crater is stunning and the wildlife is abundant and extremely habituated. 

This trip was one of the best visits I've had yet, we saw tons of lions, elephants up close, rhino, and a very cool swarm of midges (small mosquito like insects). There were relatively few tourists which also enhanced the experience as it is always the biggest drawback to the crater. 

One very cool development was the addition of an espresso machine at the lunch spot! There was a small kiosk with someone selling fresh coffee, a really welcome surprise. 

 

Lake Duluti: Trip VIII

We had some guests that had a long flight and one of the best Arusha area activities for a short walk is Lake Duluti. We had not visited for a few years and continued to see some positive developments in the area.

The area is now much more gated and they have a proper entry fee that is paid by government control number. This makes pricing much more transparent, a welcome departure from the "flexible" pricing in the past. There are also guides available but they were not too pushy when we declined as we know the area very well. 

The walk is not very long and it is also flat so it's suitable for people of all fitness levels and children. The lake is a crater lake which means there are steep hills surrounding it which isolates the walk from the busy development surrounding the lake. 

There is a religious group that uses the rim of the crater for ceremonies and their acolytes were seen on the trails chanting to themselves. They were friendly enough although the scene was a bit weird and you could hear vigorous chanting from one side of the walk. 

As mentioned this is a fantastic activity to do in the morning or evening. It's a great way to stretch your legs and there is a nice little bar/restaurant on the other side of the lake if you wanted to hang out. The organization of the activities and entry fees seems much better organized these days which will hopefully bring in some well needed tourism revenue.

TPC birding V

 

A view to the Blue Mountains in the south

 

We used to do quite a bit of birdwatching at TPC Sugar Plantation south of Moshi and we had a free afternoon so decided to pop out there. In the past we had accessed both the Namalok protected area as well as a group of pools near to the clubhouse but unfortunately both areas were locked and due to our last minute plans we didn't have time to arrange to access them. We were still able to do a classic river walk and although the main pools were not accessible there were some pools around that were accessible and we didn't manage to see some other birds.

It's still a great area to birdwatch but I would recommend people to get in touch with the management to get access to the gated areas. Next time we will plan better for sure!

Cafe review: Kilimanjaro Native Co-operative Union (KNCU)

I'm surprised I never covered my favorite cafe in Moshai, the Kilimanjaro Native Co-operative Union (KNCU). It's a historic organization, the oldest co-op in Tanzania and the building gives off historic charm. They have a pretty cool history that's worth checking out and they are now the largest purchaser of small holder coffee in Kilimanjaro. Bringing it all together they offer a coffee tour that I highly recommend.

One of our favorite traditions was coming to the cafe for a coffee and a cake, in particular their chocolate cheesecake. I recommend sharing it with someone alongside your preference of coffee. The combination is like strawberries and cream, wine and cheese, peanut butter and jelly...put this pairing in the pantheon of paired foods!

 

Resturant review: Jay's Kitchen

The spicy pork

One of the best parts about being back in Moshi, in fact, the reason we added another two hours onto our already 9 hour journey, was because of the Korean restaurant, Jay's Kitchen. We were living in Moshi when it opened and it used to be one of our favorite spots. It has authentic Korean food, complete with banchan, as well as a pleasant and quiet location. 

We had not been to Jay's Kitchen in a few years and they renovated the front area to be more of a cafe. I used to really like the Asian chef behind the counter that bowed as we entered, a nice touch of true authenticity. Still, the cafe in front/restaurant in back combo takes good advantage of their space. 

They had a new menu and I initially had difficulty locating their spicy pork (Jeyuk Bokkeum). This dish is probably one of my favorite dishes IN THE WORLD and I had a short panic when I didn't see it on the menu. However, after asking the waiter he immediately knew which dish I was talking about, as if this inquiry was of such regular frequency that he wished the menu would have it clearly as to save him time constantly fielding this question. 

They used to have a lunch special but this doesn't seem to be on the menu anymore. Still, I've got to recommend this restaurant and in my opinion it is one of the best in Tanzania. I often look for Korean food while traveling and I have not found any as good as this one.

Driving from Iringa to Arusha via Dodom

 

A view down to the Mtera reservoir

Iringa to Arusha is not easy from a logistics perspective. There are no direct flights and thus one would have to fly to Dar es Salaam and then up to Arusha. Flights from Iringa to Dar are only available once per day and are quite costly at $550 round trip, and then another $200 round trip to Arusha. Already for one person the costs are high and if you are traveling with a group then driving becomes a viable option. The road is paved the entire way and there is very little traffic making for a rather pleasant drive.

The journey starts in Iringa and the first notable part of the journey is the drop down the escarpment. It's a beautiful view looking down over Mtera Reservoir and although the road is windy there are not a lot of cars and it's nothing like the hectic nature of the escarpment coming up the other side from Dar es Salaam to Iringa. You then pass along the Mtera Reservoir before crossing over it. There is a bunch of security at the reservoir due to the fact that it is of strategic national interests and there is an immigration check so make sure to have your passport. 

After Mtera the drive is a tad boring, though pleasant enough passing through sparsely populated areas peppered with Baobab trees. Luckily the highway passes around Dodoma and thus there isn't much traffic and the journey continues through the acacia/commiphora landscape. One thing to note; there are currently no gas stations in between Dodoma and Iringa although I saw a few under construction. 

The road then begins to climb into the highlands in the north around Babati, a growing yet still quaint little city. There are hippos in the lake so keep your eyes peeled! After Babati the road begins to have much more traffic which gradually increase as you reach Arusha. There are expansive views of the rift and Lake Manyara and after we pass Tarangire gate we enjoy counting the number of safari vehicles that we pass. I think we got somewhere around 100 this past trip but depending on the time of day it can be impressive!

Google Maps estimates the journey at a cool 10 hours and there are a few ways that we approach the journey. We usually like to leave Iringa in the evening and make the 3-4 hour drive to Dodoma and overnight there. We then continue the journey in the morning to Arusha which can be anywhere from 4.5-6 hours. I think most average folks would make the journey in 9 1/2 hours. The quickest I've made it, driving with pace but not like a total maniac, was 7 1/2 hours. 

As mentioned, the journey is overall pleasant and the lack of traffic reduces the amount of constant attention that is typically required on the roads of Tanzania. The road is in great shape at the moment with very few sections pot-holed or under construction. It's a long journey but not a bad one!

Local guest house: Window above door

 

Beautiful room. But why is there a window above the door?!

One of the strangest building standards here, most notably in hotels, is the practice of placing a transparent window above the door. This could possibly be acceptable if not for the fact that none of the windows ever have a curtain or anything else to prevent the hallway light from coming in. Bright hallway lights or porch lights beam in and illuminate the room even with your interior light off; why in &#^@ sake is this design the standard for guesthouses in Tanzania?!

The most egregious case I've experienced

Recently stayed at this place

Camp during the floods

 

Rufiji River overflowing

 

There has been some unplanned flooding of the river, temporarily flooding around 50m (160 ft) of land just below where we have our camp. This has caused flooding of crops as most of the land around the rivers edge is cultivated. This has also brought in many more hippos and crocodiles, both of which regularly pass through our camp. We can hear hippos throughout the day and night, a rather pleasant chortle is constantly heard in the background. I have luckily not run into them at camp but their trails are impressive and clearly identified by their casual plowing through high grasses and bush.

There have been lions roaring across the river nearly every night as well as the usual shouts of the galago. There is a chorus of frogs and dozens of distinct insect sounds that blend into a flickering soundscape. Unfortunately there are also plenty of mosquitos, caterpillars that cause skin irritation, and spiders with a mean bite. I wrote about the numerous spiders before and that was back in dry season, imagine how many more there are now that the insects they eat are plentiful?! Once the sun sets it is shocking how fast spiders put their webs across the walking paths so you have to be alert or carry a stick to clear the paths.

As we exit the rainy season there are more partly cloudy sunny days than overcast and drizzly ones. The rapid plant growth which was crescendo over the past few months suddenly drops off and the wilting plants, although still green, give a palpable feeling of slow decay. We'll soon enter into the long dry season so I enjoy the rainy season while I can!

Amur Falcon Migration

 

Upper image is a male, lower is a female

One very cool thing about living in Iringa region is that we are on the migration path of the amazing and beautiful Amur Falcon. During migration, the Amur Falcon undertakes the longest regular overwater passage of any raptor (ie birds of prey, ie birds that actively hunt and eat invertebrates), crossing over the Indian Ocean between southwestern India and tropical East Africa. One does not have to be a birdwatcher to appreciate the beauty, strangeness, and power of a mass of birds filing the sky in all directions.

Absolutely insane journey

 

The Amur Falcon's migration is pretty insane and while researching this blog I found another blog post about a sanctuary in India that can receive 140,000 falcons within a 10 day period, likely representing the bulk of the population. I urge you to check out this great blog post and unbelievable photos.

We usually see the falcons in December on their way down to southern Africa and then April on their way back. There is a window of about a week where you can see them but if you miss the large group, which can possibly be only one day, then you'll likely only see a few stragglers. Much like in India, their passage coincides with the rains which in turn bring out the termites. The Amurs take the chance to take in some much needed food. 

It's always a special event when we see them as it requires one to be in the right place at the right time. This years sighting was particularly special as they were feeding on termites after a massive storm. We got to witness them feeding on the termites for an hour or so, zipping close to the ground with their numbers filling the entire visible sky in all directions! It would be impressive to see any creature in such large numbers but the fact that they are falcons makes the situation a bit surreal and imposes a sense of awe while watching them. 

I was not always a birdwatcher but I remember seeing what I now suspect was a huge Barn Swallow migration. I was perplexed at what I saw from my seat on the bus; the sky was stained with BIRDS?! I had never seen so many in the sky in my life and it was a cool moment where I felt humbled and awed by nature. 

Now that my appreciation and knowledge of birds has increased dramatically, I would love to witness one of the great annual migration spots: Veracruz in Mexico or Tarifa in Spain. These two spots are well known for migrations in their respective hemispheres due to the natural features of the earth creating a bottle neck in these spots. Veracruz is a strategic stop over point while Tarifa is located at the southern tip of Spain, where the Strait of Gibraltar narrows, making it the closest point between Europe and Africa. Remember when I wrote that the Amur Falcon is known for the longest overwater migration? Well, most birds do anything they can to avoid crossing large bodies of water for lack of opportunities to feed or rest, hence funneling to the narrowest point. 

While there are plenty of birds that migrate in Tanzania, none excite me as much as the Amur Falcons. You never know when, or if, you will see them so whenever you get the opportunity it's a major treat.

 

Iringa town walks II

 

Looking north

I recently wrote about a beautiful area right behind our house, a convenient and worthwhile trip whenever we are in Iringa town. This time of year is perfect for walks with cloud cover appreciated especially with the area situated at 1700m (5,570 ft). The rainy season also means the grasses and trees are full of green and the lush landscape provides a pretty backdrop.

Even though there was sufficient cloud cover and the weather was cool, the plateau is extremely exposed so we started our trek early. After the initial climb the majority of the walk was rather flat winding through grasslands and rocky outcrops. We occasionally had some peeks of Iringa town but otherwise the views were of the surrounding granite studded hillsides. 

When we reached the northern side of our destination the views were incredible! The trek down was rather moderate and we were lucky enough to pop out in town right next to where a public transport route begins making it an easy trip back to our place. It was a long walk, about 2 1/2 hours, and we were feeling tired for sure. It's a beautiful trek but the elevation not only wears you out quicker because of less oxygen but the effects of the sun's powerful UV rays are amplified as well. One must be relatively fit but also prepared with a hat, sunscreen, and plenty of water!

Grasslands

Valley to the east and north

Morogoro Town

View of the Uluguru Mountains to the south of the city

 

 

View of Morogoro town from the Uluguru Mountains looking north

I've always just passed through Morogoro town and had not really given it a fair visit. This past weekend we used the town as our base and enjoyed our time in the simultaneously sleepy yet bustling city. Morogoro is known for its rich farming both in the surrounding lowlands and the slopes of the Uluguru Mountains. The mountains provide a stunning backdrop whether they are covered in clouds or towering clearly above the town. 

Morogoro is not a large town with the most hectic area around the large bus terminal and surrounding area. The downtown area reminds me of Iringa where it is actually rather small and navigable but also bustling and full of commerce. The town offers a great base to explore Mikumi National Park as well as hiking the Uluguru Mountains. Apart from that there isn't much going on in and around Morogoro tourism wise though there were far more restaurants and eateries than I expected for such a small place. 

International food is represented well at the Edelwyss-Inn with spectacular views overlooking the town. There is great Indian at the Morogoro Hotel and nice Chinese at Gigas Panda. There are other popular places such as Red Chili, Cafe Mee, Ricky's Cafe, and Mambo Coffee. It makes sense that such a rich agricultural region would have a variety of eateries available and Morogoro punches above its weight. 

There are also a variety of accommodation options available from farmsteads on the outskirts (among them the well regarded Mbuyuni Farm Retreat) to more traditional hotels (Nashera Hotel, Morogoro Hotel) as well as dozens of local guesthouses available at good value.

Morogoro is a pleasant enough place and worth a visit. For backpackers it offers a glimpse into a very average Tanzanian town with some nearby hiking. For expats and residents it can be a fun trip with large properties available for families and relaxing. And for those in transit anywhere along the TANZAM highway, it's a great stopover location.

Uluguru Mountains: Tegetaro

View to the north

The Uluguru Mountains are massive and although we enjoyed our hike to Bondwa Peak, we wanted to explore a different section of the forest. We heard there was good birdwatching and hiking on the eastern side so we headed to the tiny village of Tegetaro to access the forest. 

The road from Morogoro to Kinole was a slow and gentle climb with only a few steep points. But the remainder of the road from Kinole to Tegetaro  pushed our vehicle to the absolute test with deep ravines comprised of slippery clay soil. Even more white-knuckling was that the sides had no shoulder nor embankment meaning there was a very real prospect of literally slipping off the side of the mountain! We crawled up and after two hours we eventually arrived at Tegetaro, trying not to think about the drive down. 

We met with our guide and headed through sloped agriculture fields of cassava, banana, cinnamon, and other types of crops. There were some pretty views of some waterfalls raging off the mountains across the valley. After about an hour we reached the forest edge and began the trek inside the forest. 

The forest was beautiful with many large specimens of trees that led to a typical tropical rainforest understory. It had clearly rained the day (and possibly night?) before and clouds were frequently engulfing us. I have always loved the montane rainforest when it rains because it feels right, something about the essence of such a lush environment. It wasn't along before it started raining but the forest was so thick that we were not receiving a drop of rain; we could hear the rain everywhere and we were simultaneously engulfed in a cloud of fog, but we were not accruing any moisture on ourselves! 

We hung out at the first camp but realized it was probably better to head back. We got a little wet on the way back but by the time we exited the forest the rain had let up a bit. We plan to come back to camp for at least one night...in the dry season. When we arrived back at our car, our concerned guide inquired with everyone in the village regarding the volume of rain. After getting responses indicating there was indeed a lot of rain, he then started calling people asking about the road. He suggested coming with us until we reached a safer point and we were happy to oblige. I was seriously concerned about navigating the road though we had all the tools (tow rope, shovel, machete, shovel, etc) and were ready to take it conservatively. Luckily we went down without issue but it was a nervous ride down and more reason for us to return only in the dry season.

Entering into a cloud.

The forest

Pretty foggy.

Agriculture field hike